Banks Peninsula - Nearly

Grant gave me a ride in his jet boat across the Rakaia River 

Whitebaiters at Rakaia River mouth

I named this seal pup Jack. He swam alongside me and twice came ashore and showed no fear of my presence.

Banks Peninsula is so close I could almost reach out and touch it.  Have a few things to report about happenings on my way here.

At Hakatere my stay for two nights was made so enjoyable by the camp caretaker Carol and her husband Neil. Carol greeted me with a gift of eggs when I first arrived, invited me in to for a shower and to watch TV on both evenings I was there. Arranged a ride into Ashburton with neighbour Graham. Baked a batch of cookies the night before I left for me to take with me. On the morning I left she provided me two large frozen steaks and 9 hard boiled eggs to take with me. She also arranged a jet boat ride across the Rakaia River and phoned the local postie to deliver a copy of the Ashburton Guardian on my last morning. What a great helpful couple they were.

When the postie delivered the paper I found that I took up half the front page! Icy has posted a link in the comments section of my previous post for those of you who would like to view it.

Finally left Hakatere on Thursday 27th & trudged 4km up beach to Wakanui Beach. Spoke to a homeless man living in a car and then local crib owner Tony whose family has owned most of the half dozen cribs at one time or another. Three of them have burned down over the years for various reasons. Tony topped up my water bottle and I was on my way again. The only thing of note for the rest of the day was one seal. About 2.30pm it started to spit and then gradually became a light rain. By 4pm I'd had enough and found a good spot to set up my tent. Somehow I have lost my spork and so dinner, the two steaks, was eaten with my fingers. The following day Friday I was away again by 7.30am and was relieved to find a few hard sand patches to relieve the feet from walking on pebbles.Was still finding the pack heavy and walking for 20 minutes and resting for 10 minutes. Saw a couple of dolphins feeding amongst the breakers. Arrived at Rakaia South Huts about 2.30pm having walked 29km over 2 days. Didn't see anyone to talk to from before lunch on Thursday until after 5pm on Friday. I did see other people about the settlement but they all avoided making eye contact. Perhaps it was because I had wet clothing etc strewn around drying in the sun! They had a hobo in town!

On Saturday I only travelled about 3km north but crossed the major obstacle of the Rakaia River. As I mentioned earlier Carol had arranged a Jet Boat ride across the River Mouth. The arrangement I had with Graham who lives in the Rakaia North settlement was that he would put the word around and if anyone say me they would come across and get me. As I could see no one I phoned Graham and he said he would come and get me and would take about 20 minutes. After hanging up a boat appeared from the north side of the river and Grant collected me in his jet boat and took me 2km upstream to the boat ramp. Graham arrived just as we did so he didn't need to launch his boat. I dropped my large pack off and Grant then took me back the 2km to the north side of the river mouth and I walked back from there. I counted 23 people whitebaiting and was told that the day before had been a good day with catches of 9lb, 6lb and 5lb etc. Stayed that night at the Rakaia Huts camping ground. The camp is kept very clean and tidy by Mel and has a small kitchen and good showers.

Was away at 8.20am on Saturday morning. I had intended to only do 10km that day but the walking was so good I ended up doing 22km! I topped up my water bottle from an outside tap at the Taumata Marae then walked across the closed outlet of Lake Ellesmere and along the Kaitorete Spit.  Twice  I was able to get my pack taken on for short distances, no more than 1km in total, by young men in cars. Called into a farm house to fill up water bottles but nobody home and no outside tap so pushed on and found a sheltered spot under a large pine tree.

Our clocks went forward for daylight saving on Saturday night so I was up at 7am on Sunday and away at 8.45am. I walked along the beach all day. After about 2 hours I noticed a baby seal swimming parallel with the beach in the direction I was going. I slowed down and we kept pace with each other. After about 5 minutes it came ashore and sat scratching itself  totally unconcerned about me. After a few minutes it went back into the sea and resumed swimming and I followed again. I eventually stopped for a break and it disappeared up the coast. A little later I caught up with it again and it once again came ashore. As I was sitting talking to it a 4wd motorbike came along the beach and the driver stopped for a chat. Ian Robertson is a local fisherman and artist and also runs the local art gallery. Ian invited me to sleep on the couch in his gallery that night. After 8 or 9 nights in the tent this was really appreciated. Ian carried on along the beach to fish, the seal remained sunbathing and I resumed walking. A couple of hours later Ian returned from his fishing and took my pack on with him.

Had a great night sleep on Ian's couch and this morning I caught a ride into Christchurch which Ian had arranged with Doug the local courier driver. I was able to get replacement cooking gas, spork and a new pair of bootlaces. Also visited the supermarket and posted  maps and brochures home. I am staying here at Ian's gallery in Birdlings Flat for a second night. Tomorrow and for the next few days I will be walking on roads across Banks Peninsula. This will be a total change of scenery for me as there will be numerous hills to climb.