Tuesday 5 February 2013

The Wairarapa Experience



Honeycomb Rock, near Glenburn Station

Long drop, Flat Point

The sudden appearance of a boat saved me a wet river crossing.

Near Castlepoint

Castlepoint



Paul rowed me across the river

Looking back towards Awitio


Since my last post I have continued to walk the coast of Wairarapa, where I have been treated with only kindness by the locals. On Monday 21st January I left Tora & walked 24km to Pohaoa on beaches and well graded vehicle tracks. Jenny from Tora very kindly went 20km out of her way to take my pack as far as she could before running out of tracks near the  Rerewhakaaitu River .  After uplifting my pack I had some tricky rocks to get around and then up a beach to Pohaoa where I spent the night in my tent in a private camping area. There were a couple of bach's and 5 caravans on site but not a soul around.

Shortly after setting off next morning I met a local fisherman who gave me advice about where to cross the Pohaoa River, which he told me would be knee high. In actual fact the water came up to my nipples!  The water was not fast flowing so no problems except some items in my pack got wet. Arrived at Glenburn Station after 15km for the day.  They employ a number of wwoofers on this sheep station, mainly to help out with servicing of the holiday homes. I stayed two nights and clipped a hedge and painted stable windows to pay for my keep. There were 4 German wwoofers who had been there a week, Sandra & Tim, Tito & Neeco, who all made me welcome and impressed me with the amount of food they eat in one sitting! Helen & John the owners of the station with the help of the wwoofers keep the place looking clean and tidy, with all of the buildings looking spick and span and no junk lying around.

On Thursday I set off thinking I would be carrying my pack all day but after 2km John came down the road and took my pack 5km. After collecting my pack I turned off onto Flat Point road and after 1km met Jay from Flat Point Station who took my pack on a further 5km. After a short farm track I followed the rocky beach for 6km and set up my tent beside the Kaiwhata River.

Friday was a big day of 25km most of it with the pack. Started off by walking 4km inland to Homewood Road. Ten Kilometers of road then brought me back to the beach. Two young lads took my pack for 1km along the beach. I later met up with them at the local dairy at Riversdale where I had enquired about camp sites.  Apparently the only public campsite closed down several years ago. A friend of the 2 boys appeared and saved the day by taking me to his grandparents, Zella & Patty, who manage a Children's Christian Adventure Camp. They happily gave me a bed in one of the dorm rooms. As I was the only person staying I had an en-suite bathroom with a choice of 2 toilets!

Saturday was another big day of 26km with the pack to Castlepoint, mostly along the beach. After 9km I came to the Whareama River which was quite deep and wide. I had seen nobody all morning and the river was deserted when I arrived. While checking out my options of where to walk across the river a boat appeared coming down river.  Responding to my waves the fishermen aboard gladly took me across the river.  The final section before Castlepoint was quite rocky and I had to walk in the sea a couple of times to get around. Then it was a very steep climb up a hill and down into Castlepoint.

I stayed at the Castlepoint Holiday Park for 3 nights and the manager Kerry happily sponsored me by not charging for my tent site. Over the previous two days I had developed a dull ache in my left heel so I stayed off my feet as much as possible while there. On the Monday I was interviewed by the Wairarapa Times Age newspaper and a good article and photo of me appeared in the Wednesdays edition. While walking near Riversdale I had found a lifejacket washed up on the beach and I received phone calls from the family of a fisherman, who had gone missing near Tora, and the local police. As it turned out it the lifejacket did not belong to the missing fisherman. While in Castlepoint I also met up again with Gordon the mailman, who had taken my pack to Ngawi, while he was on holiday in Castlepoint.

Because of my sore foot I had several days of short distances. On Tuesday I walked 11km up the beach to Mataikona. Ian the local mailman took my pack there and left it at the home of a local resident, Willie. On arrival at Willie's house he invited me in for a cup of tea and this turned into an invitation to stay the night. Willie, who has twice broken his neck, lives with his son Graham. We had fresh fish for dinner caught by Graham that day. Willie phoned Scott the manager of Owahanga Station and got permission for me to walk over their land the next day. He also arranged for a friend of his, Paul, to show me where to cross a river.

On Wednesday morning Willie took my pack to the start of the beach and I walked 12km to Owahanga. Fortuitously I met Scott after 9km and he took my pack the final 3km to Paul's place.
I stayed at Paul's place that night and accompanied him to a meeting at the local pub. On Thursday morning Paul rowed me across the river and I walked 10km to Akitio. Paul had arranged for Gonzo, a friend of his, to leave my pack at Bill and Diane's place. I was once again invited to stay and spent the night in a caravan at the back of the house. That evening I shared a BBQ dinner, beer and darts with Bill and Diane's house guests, 4 bank managers. Bill has 7 NZ darts titles to his name and a shelf in their bar area was crowded with trophies.

I set off on Friday morning expecting to carry my pack the whole 21km to Herbertville. However after 3km at Akitio Station I met up with Gonzo who offered to take my pack to the back boundary, 12km away!  I walked the 12km up a well graded farm road and found my pack. While eating lunch a Logging Contractor came along who agreed to take my pack into Herbertville. The final 6km was along the beach. We had been experiencing 30 c degree days recently and this day was no exception. Wherever possible I wetted my bandana and placed it under my sun hat. Diane
had phoned the custodians of the Herbertville camp to let them know I would be staying. On arrival the custodians, Pam & Hugh  provided me with a caravan free of charge for 2 nights.

Hugh & pam arranged for my pack to be taken onto my next destination, Porangahau, by another camper. They had also phoned and gained permission for me to walk through Tautane Station. As I was not quite sure where the farm track actually went I hope the staff at the station will forgive me for waking their dogs at 7.15am on a Sunday morning! I got temporaily lost trying to follow a paper road across the station and a 3km segment turned into 6km. The rest of the day was on roads. As my foot was still giving me problems I hitched the remaining 12km after walking 23km for the day. My pack had been left at the Porangahau pub and I bought a beer when I arrived to collect it. Talking to a couple of locals resulted in an offer of a ride 5km to the camp ground and a freshly caught blue cod from another!

On arrival at the camping ground it took me 3/4 hour  to find the manager Don, to check in. Don provided me with a cabin, at half price, for the night.

I had been due to return to Hamilton later this week for a few days off but because of my foot decided to head back early.  I arrived back here on Monday night after leaving Porangahau at 6.50am and hitch hiking to Taupo from where Charissa picked me up. I will rest my foot for a few days and once it is better return to Porangahau, where I have been offered accommodation from one of the people I hitched a lift with, and resume walking.