Banks Peninsula - Nearly

Grant gave me a ride in his jet boat across the Rakaia River 

Whitebaiters at Rakaia River mouth

I named this seal pup Jack. He swam alongside me and twice came ashore and showed no fear of my presence.

Banks Peninsula is so close I could almost reach out and touch it.  Have a few things to report about happenings on my way here.

At Hakatere my stay for two nights was made so enjoyable by the camp caretaker Carol and her husband Neil. Carol greeted me with a gift of eggs when I first arrived, invited me in to for a shower and to watch TV on both evenings I was there. Arranged a ride into Ashburton with neighbour Graham. Baked a batch of cookies the night before I left for me to take with me. On the morning I left she provided me two large frozen steaks and 9 hard boiled eggs to take with me. She also arranged a jet boat ride across the Rakaia River and phoned the local postie to deliver a copy of the Ashburton Guardian on my last morning. What a great helpful couple they were.

When the postie delivered the paper I found that I took up half the front page! Icy has posted a link in the comments section of my previous post for those of you who would like to view it.

Finally left Hakatere on Thursday 27th & trudged 4km up beach to Wakanui Beach. Spoke to a homeless man living in a car and then local crib owner Tony whose family has owned most of the half dozen cribs at one time or another. Three of them have burned down over the years for various reasons. Tony topped up my water bottle and I was on my way again. The only thing of note for the rest of the day was one seal. About 2.30pm it started to spit and then gradually became a light rain. By 4pm I'd had enough and found a good spot to set up my tent. Somehow I have lost my spork and so dinner, the two steaks, was eaten with my fingers. The following day Friday I was away again by 7.30am and was relieved to find a few hard sand patches to relieve the feet from walking on pebbles.Was still finding the pack heavy and walking for 20 minutes and resting for 10 minutes. Saw a couple of dolphins feeding amongst the breakers. Arrived at Rakaia South Huts about 2.30pm having walked 29km over 2 days. Didn't see anyone to talk to from before lunch on Thursday until after 5pm on Friday. I did see other people about the settlement but they all avoided making eye contact. Perhaps it was because I had wet clothing etc strewn around drying in the sun! They had a hobo in town!

On Saturday I only travelled about 3km north but crossed the major obstacle of the Rakaia River. As I mentioned earlier Carol had arranged a Jet Boat ride across the River Mouth. The arrangement I had with Graham who lives in the Rakaia North settlement was that he would put the word around and if anyone say me they would come across and get me. As I could see no one I phoned Graham and he said he would come and get me and would take about 20 minutes. After hanging up a boat appeared from the north side of the river and Grant collected me in his jet boat and took me 2km upstream to the boat ramp. Graham arrived just as we did so he didn't need to launch his boat. I dropped my large pack off and Grant then took me back the 2km to the north side of the river mouth and I walked back from there. I counted 23 people whitebaiting and was told that the day before had been a good day with catches of 9lb, 6lb and 5lb etc. Stayed that night at the Rakaia Huts camping ground. The camp is kept very clean and tidy by Mel and has a small kitchen and good showers.

Was away at 8.20am on Saturday morning. I had intended to only do 10km that day but the walking was so good I ended up doing 22km! I topped up my water bottle from an outside tap at the Taumata Marae then walked across the closed outlet of Lake Ellesmere and along the Kaitorete Spit.  Twice  I was able to get my pack taken on for short distances, no more than 1km in total, by young men in cars. Called into a farm house to fill up water bottles but nobody home and no outside tap so pushed on and found a sheltered spot under a large pine tree.

Our clocks went forward for daylight saving on Saturday night so I was up at 7am on Sunday and away at 8.45am. I walked along the beach all day. After about 2 hours I noticed a baby seal swimming parallel with the beach in the direction I was going. I slowed down and we kept pace with each other. After about 5 minutes it came ashore and sat scratching itself  totally unconcerned about me. After a few minutes it went back into the sea and resumed swimming and I followed again. I eventually stopped for a break and it disappeared up the coast. A little later I caught up with it again and it once again came ashore. As I was sitting talking to it a 4wd motorbike came along the beach and the driver stopped for a chat. Ian Robertson is a local fisherman and artist and also runs the local art gallery. Ian invited me to sleep on the couch in his gallery that night. After 8 or 9 nights in the tent this was really appreciated. Ian carried on along the beach to fish, the seal remained sunbathing and I resumed walking. A couple of hours later Ian returned from his fishing and took my pack on with him.

Had a great night sleep on Ian's couch and this morning I caught a ride into Christchurch which Ian had arranged with Doug the local courier driver. I was able to get replacement cooking gas, spork and a new pair of bootlaces. Also visited the supermarket and posted  maps and brochures home. I am staying here at Ian's gallery in Birdlings Flat for a second night. Tomorrow and for the next few days I will be walking on roads across Banks Peninsula. This will be a total change of scenery for me as there will be numerous hills to climb.

Ashburton - Wet Feet

I haven't got long on this PC so will keep this short. I am now at Hakatere on the coast out from Ashburton.

When I started this walk I had no support crew but by the time I'm finished I will have had thousands! I have been blown away by the helpfulness of people I have met. Cups of tea, rides to start of walks, camp fees waived, meals given, use of showers etc.

Before leaving Timaru I was interviewed by the Courier a local give away paper and that article should be published this Thursday.  Left Timaru on Wednesday 19th Sept via Hectors Coastal Path for a short way then clambered around rocks below a large factory (Abatoir?) and then past some Whitebaiters. Not close enough to talk to. Then walked beside Washdyke Lagoon and up the beach for the rest of the day. At the Opihi River I was lucky enough to get a boat ride over the river by a whitebaiter. I then had to wade up to my knees over a tidal lagoon to get to Milford Huts, a collection of Whitebaiters huts and caravans. I camped there the night after walking about 15km for the day.

Next morning when I recrossed the lagoon it was above my waist and I completely forgot that I had my phone in my jacket pocket. Result was one useless phone. I was very annoyed with myself as I do have a wet bag but didn't use it. Later in morning I crossed the Orari river and had to walk half a km upstream to find a suitable place to cross. Most of the day it was a hard slog up the beach over pebbles. Your feet sink in at each step and you loose momentum. I was walking 20minutes with a 10 minute break. I have struggled with the heavy pack. This was another 15 km day and I arrived at the Rangitata South Motor Camp. There was no sign of life so I set my tent up. A couple of hours later the manager Collin and his wife Margaret arrived back from town. Collin unlocked the kitchen, laundry and the ladies loo and showers as the men's is being repainted. Collins comment was that I was the only one staying but if I did meet a lady in the shower "then the best of luck to you". Collin waived payment in view of my walking and even gave me coins to operate the showers.

The following day, Friday, I got a ride into Ashburton with Denise, a neighbour of the camp. I replaced my phone and bought a few supplies. Prior to going into town I took a walk up river and identified a place about 4km upstream to cross the following day. I had heard mixed opinions as if it was crossable or not. I marked the spot and returned tot he camp.

On Saturday morning Collin & Margaret had a couple of long term camp users arriving to set their caravans up for the season. It is customary for Collin to cook them breakfast on the first morning and I was invited to join them. Bacon, sausage, mushroom & eggs replaced my usual porridge. I declined the offer of rum though as I needed a clear head for crossing the river.

I didn't leave until about 11am and while I found the general area I had crossed the day before I couldn't find my markers. I did however find an even better place to cross. Once over the river I climbed a bank and walked over farmland to the Rangitata North Motor Camp. I only walked about 8km for the day and was only about 2km north of the previous camp. This a great camp with large tree hedges dividing the camp and giving great shelter. I spent the afternoon laying in the sun reading. The manager of the camp Ron also refused payment.

On Sunday it was another hard slog up the beach to just past the Hind River where I camped under a couple of large pine trees. On the way I met Rene & Karena who were parked beside the beach with their caravan. They provided me with a welcome cuppa and a muffin. Later I also stopped to speak with Martin a local farmer who had brought his two sons to the beach for a picnic. Thes were the only people I spoke to for 2 days.

Yesterday I left my campsite about 8.15am and arrived at Hakatere about 2pm after walking up the beach and then about half a km up the Ashburton River. There is only a toilet at this location but the camp caretaker Carol more than makes up for the lack of facilities. On arrival she gave me 4 eggs from her hens. allowed me to use her shower and invited me in to watch TV and organised a my ride into Ashburton today. Neil her husband works at a local cattle lot. I didn't even know we had those in NZ.

Was interviewed by The Ashburton Guadian, a local daily paper, yesterday but nothing in todays paper.

No photos this time as I've forgotten to bring the cord to connect to PC. Apart form a number of lone seals there has not been much else of note to report on of recent days.
Not sure what I will do tomorrow as it is due to rain.

Looking back towards Timaru

I was given a ride across the Opihi River in a whitbaiters boat. Whitbaiters line the opposite bank.

Paddock gate near Hakatere. The farmer used to have Buffalo.

Tent set up at Hakatere with the Ashburton River in the background.

Trains & Boats & Feet

We added these glasses to this statue of Gandhi outside the Wellington Railway Station. I think they suit him!

Christchurch Cathedral. It is to be demolished due to earthquake damage.



Snowing at Arthurs Pass.



One Street which has survived the earthquake and is to be reopened by Xmas.

This is the point I left the walk in April and my restart point.

Charissa & I left Hamilton on 6th Sept on the Northern Explorer train, this replaces the Overlander, and has new carriages with large windows.Spent two days in windy Wellington and on 8th we took the ferry to Picton, South Island. When we left our hotel in Wellington the wind was so strong that I found it difficult to make headway against the wind and was nearly blown backwards despite having my backpack on and carrying a large bag. Despite this the crossing was not too bad, although we did strike one rough spot which had numerous people reaching (pun intended) for the sick bag!  On arrival in Picton we transferred to the Coastal Pacific train which took us to Christchurch. The train route took us past numerous places where I will be walking. Stayed in a backpackers which is the old Addington Jail. So we spent the night in a cell!

The following day we were up early to catch the Tranz Alpine to Greymouth. This was the most scenic train trip of all and well worth doing. We passed numerous snow covered mountains and it was snowing at Arthurs Pass where we were able to get off the train for 5 minutes. On arrival in Greymouth we walked to our accommodation the Duke Backpackers where we were upgraded to an en suit room Our host made us feel really welcome. I went for a short walk but it started to rain and while I had a raincoat my jeans were saturated in no time at all. The next day we caught the Tranz Alpine back to Christchurch where we stayed at the Jailhouse Backpackers again.

While in Christchurch we did a bus tour of the red zone where most of the buildings are being demolished due to the earthquake. It was interesting to see but also sad to see. We spent the last day at the Antarctica Centre before I farewelled Charissa who flew back to Hamilton.

I spent two more days in Christchurch staying with ex work colleagues Karla and Troy. A huge thanks to Neville and his staff at MAP WORLD in Christchurch who have provided me with 50% off maps. As I have found the 1:50,000 series the most helpful I was greedy and purchased 50 of those. These will last me to north of Auckland.

On Friday 14th Sept I left Christchurch on an LIC truck and was dropped at Raikaia from where I hitchhiked to Timaru. Since then I have been staying at the Wanderer Backpacker and instead of paying I am doing cleaning duties. I had intended to start walking on Saturday but due to the weather I didn't start until the next day. After doing my cleaning chores I hitchhiked to Hooks Beach and the point where I finished up in April. As luck would have it there was a couple in their van and so I able to get a photo taken as I restarted my journey north. They also gave me advise regarding the what I would see further up the beach.These were the only people I saw until I had nearly finished walking for the day. 

A good walk up the beach saw lost of terns and numerous nests although no eggs yet. Also saw a baby seal which took off into the surf at my approach. Was annoyed with myself that I had left my map behind and this resulted in me walking past my destination of St Andrews to Pareora, another 4 km up the road. Total distance walked on beach was 19km with another 7km walked getting to and fro.

The following day it took me 1.5 hours to get a ride back to Pareora so it was noon before I started walking. After an hour of walking I spoke to Paul who was sitting in his car having lunch and he gave me directions to a track leading to a lighthouse further up the coast. When I later found the track it was initially through gorse and at one stage I tripped on a root and fell flat on my face, luckily avoiding the gorse. Just before I got to the lighthouse the wind started to blow strongly. It was blowing so strongly that I had difficulty putting my jersey on because it was flapping around so much I needed two hands to hold onto it. I had the same problem putting my wet weather gear on. When I did finally get it all on it started to rain. I walked in the rain on the beach  for awhile then found Hectors Coastal Track which took me into Timaru in light rain and heavy wind at my back. I walked to the harbour entrance but when I turned to return the way I had come the wind was in my face and each drop stung like hail. Walked about 25km but only 16 km of it up the coast.

My walk has now officially reached Timaru. I am having a rest day today and tomorrow will head for the Rangitata river and the camping ground near the beach. This will be my first time back in my tent.

Thanks to those of you who have placed comments on this blog and welcome to the four new followers since I last signed in. Recently Charissa designed business cards for me and I have been handing these out to anyone who seems remotely interested in what I am doing.

I am not sure when I will next get the opportunity to post another blog so don't panic if it's a couple of weeks before I get to  computer.

Back on Track

Charissa, myself, Jo, Hillary, Heather, Peter & Brian. Jo & Hillary were my team mates when we completed the Oxfam Trailwalker in 2011 when we walked 100km in 24 hours. Heather, Peter and Brian were our support team.

Charissa's mother Cynthia and her partner Alan. 

Wendy, Charissa & Tina at the Hamilton Herbal Shop. My healthcare professionals. 

Spring is here and, in theory anyway, the weather is getting warmer so time for me to return to the walk. Over the winter I have been picking up casual work with Tradestaff in Hamilton. The longest stint was 3 weeks with PGG Wrightson, phoning farmers. Contacts I made there will assist me later in my walk. One problem I often have is not knowing who to contact to get permission to walk over private land. PGG Wrightson have Livestock agents all over the country with an intimate knowledge of who farms where. I will be able to tap into this network to find out who the property owners are in each area.

The equipment I purchased last year all performed well however my sleeping bag was one I already owned and I found I was getting cold towards the end so I have replaced that. I have also purchased an inflatable pillow, pure luxury and hopefully an improvement on what I was using previously, a bundle of clothes. The only other addition to my equipment this year is a Steripen which Charissa kindly bought for me. This fantastic piece of equipment uses UV light to sterilize drinking water and hopefully wont need to be used too often but will be great for emergencies.
Once again thanks to Kirsty and the team at Bivouac in Hamilton who not only know the products they sell but who also give me a generous discount.

A big thanks too to Murray at The Map & Chart shop in Hamilton who has provided me with free 1:250,000 maps of both North and South Islands.  Murray is very knowledgeable about maps and was also very helpful when I was planning a train trip across Russia a few years ago.

So it's all systems go again. First however is an extended train jouney. Tomorrow Charissa and I travel on the Northern Explorer train to Wellington where we are staying for two nights. On Saturday we cross over to the South Island by Cook Strait ferry and take the Coastal Pacific train to Christchurch. On Sunday we take the Trans Alpine train to Greymouth and return back to Christchurch the same way the following day. Charissa will then fly home and I will restart my walk on Saturday 15th Sept from where I left off.

One of the things I that I look forward to during my journey is receiving comments from my friends and supporters so please send me your comments on this blog and I will try to reply to you all.  My next post should be from Timaru just 2 days after I restart walking.