My hosts in Whangarei, Lisca, Rhianon & Chris had arranged accommodation at Whangarei Heads with friends of theirs Gary & Sue. On Wednesday 12th February Chris dropped my pack at Gary's workplace, so I had an easy walk through Whangarei and over the new river bridge. After walking on the road I took a walkway around the coast past Onerahi. The rest of the 32km for the day was on the road. On the way I met Kip who owns a B&B, he offered me a free bed for the night. When I explained that I already had a bed for the night he said "well if they mistreat you, come back here". At Parua Bay I bought the local paper with an article about my walk. The photo was taken in such a way that my feet took up the biggest part of it. Sue and Gary looked after me with a pleasant room, food and conversation. They entertained me with their travel stories.
I only managed 16km next day but it was a hard days walking. Initially along the road and then by walking tracks to WW2 gun emplacements and then to Smugglers Cove. I was pleased not to have my pack with me as what came next on the Bream Head Track was a series of steps up past Mt Lion. I stopped often as the steps just went on and up, then up some more. When I thought it couldn't go up any more, it did! Then more, and yet more again! The 5km to Ocean Beach took 3.5 hours. Once there, I texted Gary who brought my pack and I set up my tent.
 |
| Smugglers Cove from part way up the Bream Head Track |
Hugh and son Bruce ferried my pack 2km up the estuary next morning while Ros walked with me up the road. Shortly after I crossed the Pataua footbridge across an estuary. 14km of road then brought me to the Mackarel Forest Track. Despite being overgrown I really enjoyed this stretch of track, as it meandered beside a pine plantation and a stream. Another 4km of road walking brought me back to the main road where I hitched to Tutukaka. I was picked up by Peter who not only knew my hosts from last night but also my sons boss in Whangamata. I booked into a backpackers room at the Motor Camp for 3 nights after walking 20km for the day.
 |
| Ros,Hugh & Bruce. |
The following day I hitched back to my start point and walked the 20km back to the camp mostly on roads but also over rocks along the coast. Monday was a rest day and I did a short walk to a lighthouse.
When I set off on Tuesday it was threatening rain but we only had a few spits. On the way to Matapouri my pack was taken on for about a km. Once at Matapouri I left my pack with the helpful male shopkeeper who was wearing a lovely short white dress. I walked along the beach and then the Whalebay Walkway before returning and collecting my pack. From Sandy Bay a 6km walkway took me to Whananaki where I walked across the 400m pedestrian bridge to the Motor Camp. The weather didn't look too promising so I booked into a cabin. Later a fine misty rain rolled in and stayed for the next couple of days.
 |
| Footbridge at Whananaki |
Next morning I hitched back and Bill picked me up and went 4km out of his way to drop me at my start point. It was just a 13km walk back to the camp.
On Sunday it was a 12km walk on a sealed road to The Farm where I appeared to be the only guest at this very busy backpackers. The owners Ellen and Michael have 9 children and also employ a lot of WWOOFERS to help out with school camps, horse treks and trail bike riding. I was given a room with an ensuite for $20.
On Monday I walked 21km along roads, stopping for lunch at lovely Te Uenga Bay where people were kayaking and swimming in the blue water. At Jacks Bay I was offered a ride to Russell. Bruce dropped me off at the Oranga Bay Holiday Park. The cabins were too expensive for me and the tent sites were the most expensive I've come across yet at $25, although they discounted it to $22. As Don the owner was going into Russell later he agreed to take me in to do some shopping. When we got back his wife Angela said " well you should be very happy, you've had good value for $22". I met a family staying at the camp who live in Whangamata and know my son and daughter in law. When they read about me in their local paper they had gone down to the road to wait with oranges, but I'd already gone past. Hopefully the oranges were for eating not throwing!
Next morning as I left the camp I noticed a, newly placed, blackboard sign saying "Tent Sites from $19". Bruce who picked me up the day before owned the local school buses and so I was able to get a ride back to my start point on a school bus. It was 10km of road walking back to the camp, on the way I picked up an expired passport on the side of the road, so I placed it in the next mailbox I came to. I wonder what the people thought when they next collected their mail! As my Sherpas did not turn up again I had to carry my own pack for the rest of the day. A 4km track that seemed much longer, due to some steep bits, took me to Okiato. Unusually I saw lots of other people walking the track. At Okiato I took the ferry to Opua, a bargain at $1! A 6km coastal track then took me to Paihia where I stayed in a backpackers for two nights
Wednesday was a day off and I took the ferry to Russell and back. On Thursday I left Paihia and walked to Kerikeri via Waitangi. At Mt Bledisloe I turned into the forest and was confronted by a sign saying it was closed to the public, due to logging operations. I phoned the DOC number displayed on the sign and spoke to Steve. He is that most unusual of people, friendly, helpful and knowledgable. He advised me that, as my route would not go through the logging area, I could proceed. After 11km of forestry road I then walked on public roads to Kerikeri and past the Stone Store to the home of Bob & Helen, relatives of friends. They have a lovely home and a large garden complete with a waterfall. Bob welcomed me with home brew.
 |
| Outside Stone Store Kerikeri, one of NZ's oldest buildings |
On Friday morning Bob drove me back into Kerikeri from where I caught the bus to Hamilton.
I am here for a week and then back to Kerikeri and the final segment to Cape Reinga.
Total walked so far = 4122km.
No comments:
Post a Comment