Saturday 21 January 2012

Making Progress

I spent 4 nights at Owhaka not only is there plenty to see and do in the area but I was also suffering from a sore knee. I made two side trips from Owaka one to see Jacks Blowhole a hole in the ground 200 metres from the sea where the sea can be seen surging 55 metres down. The other trip was to Nugget Point, I was very impressed with the scenic views here of the lighthouse, seals, spoonbills, shags etc. A lady staying at the hostel I was staying at was going there and offered me a ride. It was an interesting drive at 60km/hour on the main road, few gear changes and much labouring of the engine!

Instead of paying for my tent site I did a few hours cleaning/vacuuming etc, the upshot of this is that I am travelling back there in early February and will be managing the Youth Hostel/Motor camp for ten days while the owner goes on holiday. This will not only help replenish my funds but will give me some skills I might be able to use later.

From Owaka I walked to Kaka Point up the coast and mostly over farmland. I had phoned the 4 farmers concerned and gained permission to walk over their land. Unfortunately the day was wet and low cloud meant I couldn't see where the headlands were and had to walk every little headland and inlet due to very poor visibility so walked furthest than I would have if it had been sunny.This was steep sheep country and the grass was wet and slippery. Craig the owner of the hostel drove my pack to Kaka Point so this was the 4th day I didn't need to carry it. Saw one seal and one sea lion en route.

I stayed 2 nights in my tent at the Kaka Point Motor camp as my knee was still playing up. Met Wade and Penny who were having a few days camping with 3 young children, they not only fed me but took my pack onto Balclutha where I walked to after Kaka Point. A fairly boring walk on roads from Kaka Point to Balclutha, I had phoned Colin and Dianne the night before and they collected me from Balclutha and took me the 6kms to their farm and showed me great hospitality and home cooking. They are the parents of Kim who I gardened for at Waipapa Point. The next day they took me into Balclutha where I visited a Physio for my knee. In the Health 2000 shop in Balclutha, Elaine provided me with a cup of tea, muffin and nuts to nibble on.

Reaching Balclutha is bit of a milestone for me as it is the first town of any size I have reached since leaving Invercargill, it is also the end of the Catlins.

Balclutha to Kaitangata was the first day walking with my large pack for some time and as it was all on roads a fairly uneventful walk, I did get off the main road at Stirling and walked the long way round through Inch Clutha. The Motor Camp at Kaitangata is quite small but clean and for the same price as a tent site I was offered and took a bed in a back room.accessed through a large storeroom holding vehicles and caravans amongst other things. The camp had 3 permanent residents one of which was a self opinionated older man who quickly told me what the faults were with my walk where I should have walked etc etc. He also told me his sister ran the local shop and later when I said I was off to the shop and I would tell her that he sent me he said better not do that as he used to live with her but they kicked him out and they no longer talked. I wonder why! I assume that his was the room with very thin walls next to mine where the TV went all night tuned to BBC World News.

After little sleep the next day I walked roads again to Wangaloa and camped on the Domain behind the Golf Course. Jack, a volunteer groundsman at the Golf Course provided me with pork, fish and frozen peas for dinner. The walk from Wangaloa to Toko Mouth was mostly along beaches but no wild life to speak of. Camped at the Toko Mouth Domain. Asked some people travelling in a caravan if they could sell me any vegetables and was given silver beet and oranges for which they refused payment. Had a later start than usual from Toko Mouth as I had to wait for low tide to walk across the river. Forded the river at 9.30am and got the bottom of my shorts wet but they soon dried. The walk was mostly along beaches and through a couple of small settlement where the cribs are mostly original and little sign of any modern construction. One exception is the home of Ken and Marg Tustin who invited me in for lunch, gave me so much food to take away with me it was embarrassing (but also very welcome as several days without shops). Ken kept asking me what they could do to help me. He is well known as being the person who has written books, been on TV etc trying to prove that there are still Moose in Fiordland, apparently DNA proof from hair samples is not enough to convince most people! Walked into the early evening as I had another creek to cross and finally pitched my tent in very windy conditions after crossing Akatore Creek about 8pm. Saw one seal colony and one sea lion today.

As my time is up on this computer I will have to stop here and do another update in a few days about my travels to Dunedin. I would like to thank all the numerous people who have showed me kindness by providing food when my supplies have run low, in each case I have offered to buy food but my money has been refused.

Thanks again to all those who have posted comments, it's great to know that people are reading this.

1 comment:

Anonymous said...

Meeting Ken and Marg would have been interesting, in fact only last week there was a TV programme which featured Ken and Moose. Also I am related to Ken by marriage! My late wife Jane was a Tustin. It is neat to read about your travels and the great helpful people you meet, there's hope for humanity yet!
Chris S