Spirit Willing - Body Weak

         

Friends Bev & Chris in Napier. They loaned me a car, ferried me around and provided a base for me to come and go fro

Total distance Walked since November 2011 = 2301km.  Total North Island 565km.


Sad to tell you that I am now having to take the winter off to allow my foot to recover.  Two weeks after restarting at Porangahau my foot again started to play up and I have now returned to Hamilton. I will take at least 3 months off and return to the walk in July or August. I am again having acupuncture which is has already relived most of the aching.

After a couple of days rest in Napier my friend Chris dropped me off in Clifton and I walked 24 easy kms into Napier. Most of the journey was along crushed limestone paths plus a little beach walking. Once back in Napier I called at the local i-site to gather information about the coast ahead. They proved to be totally useless, not even having a map of the coast! The local DOC office proved more helpful and I learned that the coastal walkway I had hoped to take has been closed for some years due to landslides and erosion.

The following day I walked 26km to Tongoio, most of the way was once again along crushed gravel paths past Ahuriri, Westshore & Bayview. Once past Bayview I took rough tracks and reverted to the beach where necessary. After crossing the Esk River I walked past Whirinaki and crossed another river. From there it was along the beach to Tongoio. Two km of road walking then brought me to the main road. After half an hour of putting my thumb out I was picked up by Lou, a local wool buyer, who took right to where I was staying at Bev & Chris's home.

I had another day off and on Sunday Bev & Chris dropped me off  at Tongoio about 9.30am.
Only walked 8km that day due to a very rocky coastline and carrying my big pack. The rocks in this area have lots of shell fossils embedded in them which makes them very sharp. I slipped at one stage and received impressive looking grazes to both legs and one arm. While they looked impressive and received lots of comments in the days to come they were only superficial and soon healed. Occasionally I was able to get above the rocks and walk on sheep tracks and 10 minutes from Waipatiki Beach I followed a track to the Motor Camp. I stayed in my tent that night at the camp. I did not get much sleep that night due partly to my aching foot and the scratches to my legs.

Before leaving the next day I spoke with a Hawaiian couple who have a fruit farm in Hawaii and a home in Havelock North. Later they overtook me on the 3.5km track to Aropaoanui. Met up with them again there and left them exploring the beach. From there I followed parts of the abandoned Coastal Walkway but large portions have fallen into the sea and I had to walk in the sea a few times. After a couple of hours I came to a spot that I could not get past as the waves were crashing off the rocks and the cliff was too steep to climb. As it was only 2 hours after low tide it seemed unlikely that I would get past even had I tried at low tide. I reluctantly returned to Aropaoanui  where I camped for the night. After walking for 13km I was only 3.5km further north! That evening I walked to a local farmhouse and received permission to cross their farm the next day along a farm track which would bring me out on the coast north of the cliff.

The following morning after another restless night with my foot continuously aching I made the decision to return to Hamilton to seek treatment. I returned the 3.5 km along the coast to Waipatiki and hitchhiked from there back into Napier. After spending another night with Bev & Chris I caught the bus to Hamilton.

Four treatments of acupuncture has seen my foot improve and I only have a small amount of aching now. I have been advised to give my foot a good rest.  I will try to get temporary work over the winter and return to walking after the worst of the winter is over.

Back On My Feet

What was the longest place name in the world (until I created a longer one)

Peter &Cocoa. peter and his wife Michelle provided me with accommodation and took my pack 15km.

Natural stone arches near Cape Kidnappers

Gannet Colony - Cape Kidnappers

Looking back towards Cape Kidnappers

Total distance walked since November 2011 = 2226km. Total North Island = 490km

I caught a bus to Napier on Monday 11th March and stayed the night with friends Bev & Chris. They have been brilliant hosts and loaned me Chris's fishing wagon as well as ferrying me around.

On Tuesday I drove to Porangahau to Peter & Michelle Haynes place. Peter had picked me up when, I hitchhiked out with a sore foot, a few weeks ago and had offered me accommodation when I returned. On the way I drove a short side trip to visit the spot with the worlds longest name.
Here goes:

Taumatawhakatangihangakoauauotamateaturipuakaapikimaungahoronukupokaiwhenuakitanatahu

82 letters long and translated means "The hilltop where Tamatea, with big knees, conqueror of mountains,eater of land, traveller over land and sea,played with his kaouau (flute) to his beloved'

After meeting Michelle and having a cup of tea Peter drove me up Cooks Tooth Road to where I had previously left off walking. I renamed this spot and it is now the newest longest place name in the world.

Theveryspotwhereerichadtostopwalkingbecauseofaverysorefootonhisepicwalkfromblufftocapereinga-
andwherehelaterresumedwalkingfromafteraccupuncturehadfixedhisfoot

If there are any sign writers reading this who would like to sponsor me by erecting a sign on the above spot, please contact me.

It didn't take long to walk the 7km and I then drove to Blackhead to check out my route for the next couple of days. Later back at Peter& Michelle's place Bev & Chris came out after work and picked up their car.

On Wednesday I walked 20km, first along a sealed road and then a metal road, as the coast is too rocky to walk around. Peter brought my pack to me and met me on the road after 15km. After another 5km I met a man coming out of a paddock and I enquired about accommodation in shearers quarters. He took my pack on to the next farm where Ron said that the owner was away for a few hours but thought it would be OK if I stayed in an outside room behind his house. Later he introduced me to Jane the bosses wife who at first appeared disgruntled and taken aback that a hobo had taken up residence. She later warmed to the idea and provided me with a couple of apples. The next morning Ron provided me with a cooked breakfast and Jane's husband James offered to take my pack 12km into Blackhead.

I arrived at Blackhead on the coast at 10am and James delivered my pack an hour later. After two hours of walking on good hard sand I arrived at Pourerere (having walked past Aromona). I introduced myself to the camp custodian Dick and he agreed to sponsor me by providing a caravan for the night. I spent a comfortable night and Dick was able to give me directions for the next day.

On Friday it was 21km up the beach to Kairakau. Some good hard sand and also some slow rock bits. Due to carrying my pack it was quite slow going in the heat. Sometimes I was taking a 10minute break after 20 minutes walking. Two Km from my destination I met Peter & Robyn picnicking on the beach with their granddaughter. They had the whole sandy beach to themselves. Peter took my photo and agreed to carry my pack to the camping ground. The camp itself was very basic, although they charged top dollar. After asking several people I finally got good info on the next days walk. Viviene, a local gave me the use of her phone and I called Nigel from Te Apiti Station who happily gave me permission to walk through the Station to join up two no exit roads.

Saturday was another 21km, on roads and vehicle tracks, to Waimarama. After 5km John and Neil took my pack 2km to Te Apiti Station. After meeting the manager Nigel, it was a very hot walk along a vehicle track for 5km. Just as I came out onto the road again I met Brett exiting his lifestyle block to head into Waimarama and he agreed to take my pack.  On arrival at the camping ground I set up my tent near the kitchen and alongside a covered BBQ area. Big mistake! Later that night 5 young people, not staying at the camp, decided it was a great place for a party. My polite request for them to move on was greeted by derision and abuse. They did move on but as they moved away they were talking loudly about the person who had dared interrupt their fun. I heard one of the girls suggest that they return and "do something to his tent". I was awake for ages after that but nothing untoward happened and I eventually got to sleep. Next morning when I reported the incident to the camp manager he told me that the young people were relatives of his. Congratulations Waimarama, this is the only place I've ever had any problems since setting out!

On Sunday it was a short 8km walk up the beach to Ocean Beach, mostly good hard sand but I had to walk in the sea a couple times as I was too impatient to wait for the tide to recede. Chris and Bev, picked me up from the Ocean Beach and drove me back to Napier. On the way they took me to Clifton to get information about walking around Cape Kidnappers.

I drove back to Ocean Beach in Chris's wagon on Monday. I didn't start walking until 11am because of the tides. After 8km of sandy beach a rocky headland obstructed my way. I explored a dry stream bed through a canyon which only took me inland so returned to the beach and waited for the tide to recede. Getting impatient I then scaled a steep hill and walked North until I found a way back down to the beach. While descending the hill I saw more skinks that I have seen in the entire journey so far.
More sandy beaches interspersed with rocky outcrops, which required wading in the sea to get around, eventually brought me to Cape Kidnappers (famous for its Gannet Colonies). Here I had to climb another steep hill, on top of which is the main Gannet Colony. As I had been there before I didn't linger long and found the coastal walkway to Clifton. As I had arranged for Chris & Bev to pick me up after work I  walked the remaining 9km in an hour and a quarter. On the way I saw several other walkers and a tractor, with two trailers full of passengers, all going out to view the Gannets. Chris & Bev then drove me back to Ocean Beach to retrieve their car.

Yesterday and today have been rest days. I am pleased to report that my feet and legs are all feeling good with only a small amount of stiffness so I'm looking forward to the next section. Tomorrow I will walk the remaining 24km from Clifton to Napier. On Friday I then start walking north from Napier.

Needles & Pins

My left foot - with acupuncture needles

My left knee

I returned to Hamilton 5 weeks ago with a sore foot. Initially I just rested it, in the hope it would get better on its own. While it was a little better after two weeks, I accepted the offer of acupuncture from Dr Rebecca Lee of Jade Acupuncture in Hamilton. I am pleased to report that after 12 sessions, it is now fully recovered.

Rebecca is a skilled Acupuncturist, which she has taught in her native Taiwan. I was initially a little nervous about letting someone stick needles in me but she has studied and learnt how to keep the pain levels low. The remarkable thing was that I had noticeable improvements in my foot after each treatment. If you are in Hamilton NZ and in pain, give Rebecca a call at Jade Acupuncture (07 838 0171).

On Monday I am booked on the bus to Napier where I will spend the night with friends Bev & Chris and on Tuesday return to Porangahau and resume walking on Wednesday.

Over the past 5 weeks I have I have been resting and eating and have put on any weight I had lost walking from Wellington and am eager to resume walking.

Since starting my walk in November 2011 I have walked a total of 2106 km, 371 of that in the North Island. All going to plan I should be able to place another report in about 10 days and add another 120 km to the tally.

While we are on the subject of statistics, there has now been over 10,000 views of this blog. Incredible! Currently averaging about 50 views a day. Amazing!

The Wairarapa Experience

Honeycomb Rock, near Glenburn Station

Long drop, Flat Point

The sudden appearance of a boat saved me a wet river crossing.

Near Castlepoint

Castlepoint

Paul rowed me across the river

Looking back towards Awitio

Since my last post I have continued to walk the coast of Wairarapa, where I have been treated with only kindness by the locals. On Monday 21st January I left Tora & walked 24km to Pohaoa on beaches and well graded vehicle tracks. Jenny from Tora very kindly went 20km out of her way to take my pack as far as she could before running out of tracks near the  Rerewhakaaitu River .  After uplifting my pack I had some tricky rocks to get around and then up a beach to Pohaoa where I spent the night in my tent in a private camping area. There were a couple of bach's and 5 caravans on site but not a soul around.

Shortly after setting off next morning I met a local fisherman who gave me advice about where to cross the Pohaoa River, which he told me would be knee high. In actual fact the water came up to my nipples!  The water was not fast flowing so no problems except some items in my pack got wet. Arrived at Glenburn Station after 15km for the day.  They employ a number of wwoofers on this sheep station, mainly to help out with servicing of the holiday homes. I stayed two nights and clipped a hedge and painted stable windows to pay for my keep. There were 4 German wwoofers who had been there a week, Sandra & Tim, Tito & Neeco, who all made me welcome and impressed me with the amount of food they eat in one sitting! Helen & John the owners of the station with the help of the wwoofers keep the place looking clean and tidy, with all of the buildings looking spick and span and no junk lying around.

On Thursday I set off thinking I would be carrying my pack all day but after 2km John came down the road and took my pack 5km. After collecting my pack I turned off onto Flat Point road and after 1km met Jay from Flat Point Station who took my pack on a further 5km. After a short farm track I followed the rocky beach for 6km and set up my tent beside the Kaiwhata River.

Friday was a big day of 25km most of it with the pack. Started off by walking 4km inland to Homewood Road. Ten Kilometers of road then brought me back to the beach. Two young lads took my pack for 1km along the beach. I later met up with them at the local dairy at Riversdale where I had enquired about camp sites.  Apparently the only public campsite closed down several years ago. A friend of the 2 boys appeared and saved the day by taking me to his grandparents, Zella & Patty, who manage a Children's Christian Adventure Camp. They happily gave me a bed in one of the dorm rooms. As I was the only person staying I had an en-suite bathroom with a choice of 2 toilets!

Saturday was another big day of 26km with the pack to Castlepoint, mostly along the beach. After 9km I came to the Whareama River which was quite deep and wide. I had seen nobody all morning and the river was deserted when I arrived. While checking out my options of where to walk across the river a boat appeared coming down river.  Responding to my waves the fishermen aboard gladly took me across the river.  The final section before Castlepoint was quite rocky and I had to walk in the sea a couple of times to get around. Then it was a very steep climb up a hill and down into Castlepoint.

I stayed at the Castlepoint Holiday Park for 3 nights and the manager Kerry happily sponsored me by not charging for my tent site. Over the previous two days I had developed a dull ache in my left heel so I stayed off my feet as much as possible while there. On the Monday I was interviewed by the Wairarapa Times Age newspaper and a good article and photo of me appeared in the Wednesdays edition. While walking near Riversdale I had found a lifejacket washed up on the beach and I received phone calls from the family of a fisherman, who had gone missing near Tora, and the local police. As it turned out it the lifejacket did not belong to the missing fisherman. While in Castlepoint I also met up again with Gordon the mailman, who had taken my pack to Ngawi, while he was on holiday in Castlepoint.

Because of my sore foot I had several days of short distances. On Tuesday I walked 11km up the beach to Mataikona. Ian the local mailman took my pack there and left it at the home of a local resident, Willie. On arrival at Willie's house he invited me in for a cup of tea and this turned into an invitation to stay the night. Willie, who has twice broken his neck, lives with his son Graham. We had fresh fish for dinner caught by Graham that day. Willie phoned Scott the manager of Owahanga Station and got permission for me to walk over their land the next day. He also arranged for a friend of his, Paul, to show me where to cross a river.

On Wednesday morning Willie took my pack to the start of the beach and I walked 12km to Owahanga. Fortuitously I met Scott after 9km and he took my pack the final 3km to Paul's place.
I stayed at Paul's place that night and accompanied him to a meeting at the local pub. On Thursday morning Paul rowed me across the river and I walked 10km to Akitio. Paul had arranged for Gonzo, a friend of his, to leave my pack at Bill and Diane's place. I was once again invited to stay and spent the night in a caravan at the back of the house. That evening I shared a BBQ dinner, beer and darts with Bill and Diane's house guests, 4 bank managers. Bill has 7 NZ darts titles to his name and a shelf in their bar area was crowded with trophies.

I set off on Friday morning expecting to carry my pack the whole 21km to Herbertville. However after 3km at Akitio Station I met up with Gonzo who offered to take my pack to the back boundary, 12km away!  I walked the 12km up a well graded farm road and found my pack. While eating lunch a Logging Contractor came along who agreed to take my pack into Herbertville. The final 6km was along the beach. We had been experiencing 30 c degree days recently and this day was no exception. Wherever possible I wetted my bandana and placed it under my sun hat. Diane
had phoned the custodians of the Herbertville camp to let them know I would be staying. On arrival the custodians, Pam & Hugh  provided me with a caravan free of charge for 2 nights.

Hugh & pam arranged for my pack to be taken onto my next destination, Porangahau, by another camper. They had also phoned and gained permission for me to walk through Tautane Station. As I was not quite sure where the farm track actually went I hope the staff at the station will forgive me for waking their dogs at 7.15am on a Sunday morning! I got temporaily lost trying to follow a paper road across the station and a 3km segment turned into 6km. The rest of the day was on roads. As my foot was still giving me problems I hitched the remaining 12km after walking 23km for the day. My pack had been left at the Porangahau pub and I bought a beer when I arrived to collect it. Talking to a couple of locals resulted in an offer of a ride 5km to the camp ground and a freshly caught blue cod from another!

On arrival at the camping ground it took me 3/4 hour  to find the manager Don, to check in. Don provided me with a cabin, at half price, for the night.

I had been due to return to Hamilton later this week for a few days off but because of my foot decided to head back early.  I arrived back here on Monday night after leaving Porangahau at 6.50am and hitch hiking to Taupo from where Charissa picked me up. I will rest my foot for a few days and once it is better return to Porangahau, where I have been offered accommodation from one of the people I hitched a lift with, and resume walking.

Wind, rain and more wind.

The start of State Highway One - Wellington Airport

Barneys Whare

The rear of Barneys Whare, where I spent the night.

John and his bach at Ocean Beach

Gordon the helpful mailman

Ngawi - bulldozers are used to launch the fishing boats

Looking back towards Cape Palliser

High & Dry

Jenny from Tora took my pack 20km out of her way.

The start of the North Island segment of the walk started in Wellington where I stayed for 3 nights at The Base Backpackers. This is the biggest backpackers I've stayed in yet. Despite the size the staff were really friendly and the place is well organised. Thanks to Dana and Hester for all their help.

I travelled to Wellington by bus on Wednesday 9th January and next day caught a bus to the airport and started walking from there. The wind was howling as I walked around the peninsula past Seatoun. I lost my good Bivouac bandana in the wind. Once around the peninsula I walked back to the airport and the start of SH1. Then into the city in the wind and rain and back to the backpackers for a total of 17km.

Friday saw me walking out of Wellington via the Railway Station and the Bluebridge and Interislander terminals. One of the worse parts of the walk so far was walking alongside the Hutt Highway with cars and trucks whizzing past. Then along the foreshore at Petone, alongside the Hutt River and then along the bays to Eastbourne. The ferry ride back to Wellington was great after a 26km walk.

On Saturday morning I signed out of the backpackers and caught a bus back to Eastbourne. A walk alongside the promenade brought me to the start of the coastal walk to Pencarrow Head. A locked gate keeps vehicles out and allows pedestrians and cyclist through. There were a few of each, including one young man walking the gravel road in carpet slippers! Just before the two lighthouses at Pencarrow I heard a noise of wheels on gravel directly behind me and on turning around found a large bus, closely followed by two others. They were taking tourists from a Cruise ship to a lodge. So much for no vehicles. At Baring Head the road turned to a 4wd track and I was hoping that the strong Southerly would disappear once I walked around the headland. No such luck, it turned to a Northerly!
After walking 22km my first attempt at camping was curtailed when the strongly gusting wind collapsed my tent! The first time this had happened to me. I then walked a further 3km and found what I thought was a sheltered spot but once again my tent was collapsed by the wind. Giving up using the tent I retreated to a locked Whare and slept on the porch behind that. Not much sleep though due to the wind and the birds in a nest above my head fidgeting all night!

The coastline in that area is rugged and beautiful. On Sunday morning after 9km I came upon a few baches at Ocean Beach. Calling at on of the baches for water, John invited me to stay the night. This was welcome after my sleepless night. John is an interesting character. In his 70's he still works part time as Land Surveyor. When in his 20's he was keen on geology and once discovered the skeleton of a 14th century Maori Chiefs son buried in the sand. The 4wd track I walked to get to Johns is a rough track and a few years ago John came across a couple in a car trying to drive to Wellington along it. He put them right and put them up for the night. They were driving a Rolls Royce, so that was parked outside his bach for the night. Not far from Johns place isa luxury lodge. Some years ago he and a mate were walking on the beach when they were approached by a man walking the opposite way "good morning gentlemen, my names Bill Clinton, you may have heard of me"! So I can now say i've shaken hands with a man who's shaken hands with Bill Clinton!

The week before I arrived John had been bitten by a dog which had previously bitten someone else and was supposed to be muzzled in public. The wound on his leg was inflamed and as he was heading into town next day to get it looked at again, he agreed to take my pack part of the way. My next destination was Lake Ferry only about 8km along the beach. However a lake empties into the sea there and so I had to make a 44km road detour. Setting off early I walked 16km along a good road and then waited for John with my pack. Once again the wind was blowing. Another 12km brought me to a main road and from there I hitchhiked 18km into Lake Ferry and the Motor Camp. Due to wind and rain I booked into a cabin for 3 nights rather than stay in my tent. The owner of the camp Mary helped sponsor me by only charging for 2 nights.

The next day Mary also generously drove me back to where i'd hitchhiked form the day before and I walked through yet more wind and rain to the cabin. Three people offered me a ride that day. The first vehicle to stop was a police car!

Wednesday was a rest day for me and guess what, no wind!

Mary had given me the name of the local Rural Delivery driver Gordon. On Thursday Gordon took my pack to Ngawi. Meeting him on the road he also gave me the address off Richie & Barbara where I could stop for a break after 21km. They made me very welcome and after tea and cake saw me on my way with fresh vegetables from their garden. 6km from Ngawi it was not only windy but wet and hailing so I hitched the remaining 6km. After collecting my pack from where Gordon had left it I managed to find someone with a room to rent as I was not keen on camping in the wind and rain.

On Friday I hitched back to where I had left off the day before and walked back to Ngawi. I had intended to move on that day but the weather was once again baked bean weather, wet and windy! So I had a lazy day reading.

On Saturday morning I was was away at 7.30 toward Cape Palliser. For 2km I walked with Kevin who was staying in the area for the long weekend. Another 9km along 4wd tracks brought me to White Rocks. Frank a local farmer gave me vege from his garden and a very welcome cold ginger beer. After walking 16km for the day I set up my tent in the White Rocks camp ground. The first time in my tent in the North Island. It had been a good day walking with no wind but by early evening the wind had started. I did manage to drift off to sleep twice during the night but it was a sleepless night as the wind blew the tent flat. The only other tent there was wrecked during the night and the occupants took refuge in their car.

After leaving camp this morning I crossed a river and then walked 12km along a 4wd drive track and a metal road to Tora. Three years ago I did the Tora Walk, this is a farm walk over 3 days where your packs are carried on each day and a meal is provided each night. I called in to see if there were any spare beds in the walkers accommodation tonight but they were all full. However Alastair invited me to stay in their home tonight. Today there has been no wind or rain and tonight I will sleep in a bed. Alastair and Jenny have opened their home to me and made me really welcome. Jenny has also kindly given me the use of her laptop to update this blog.

In the last 10 days I have walked 183km. Its mostly been roads and 4wd tracks with more of the same over coming days.

North Island Here I Come

I have had a relaxing 3 weeks with Charissa in Hamilton and caught up with family and friends. It's now time to start walking again.

Tomorrow (9th January) I travel to Wellington by bus. Weather depending, on Thursday I will commence walking the North Island. Rain and gale force winds are predicted for Thursday, so I may delay the start until Friday.  While in Wellington I will be staying at The Base backpackers who are sponsoring me. A big thanks to Hester and Dana for organizing this and allowing it to happen.

Thanks to Kirsty from Bivouac Outdoors for once again giving me a generous discount on items purchased for the walk. I will be recommencing with a new pair of tramping boots as my last pair were well and truly worn out. Not only were the heels worn down but they had holes in the uppers which let sand get into the linings which then rubbed my feet.

As there are no major towns directly on the East Coast until I get to Napier it may be sometime until I can write the next post here. I will endeavor to write again, as soon as I can.

Queen Charlotte Sounds Walkway

Weka stole my lunch!

As I had a few days to spare after arriving in Picton, before my ferry booking to Wellington. I walked the Queen Charlotte Walkway. Many thanks to Cougar Lines who sponsored me by providing a 50% discount on the boat trip. The Walkway is 71km long and I took the Cougar Line boat to Ships Cove to start the walk and they ferried my pack on each day and then collected me at the end from Anakiwa and took me back to Picton.

I really enjoyed the 3 day walk. The views on both sides are fabulous, the gradients are not too steep and as most of the walk is under the bush canopy, it wasn't too hot. While eating lunch on the first day I put my sandwich down on the seat alongside me and a couple of cheeky Weka stole it while I wasn't looking. This is not the first time I have been mugged by birds!  That night Weka also dragged my toilet bag away from my tent, possibly trying to get at the fish oil tablets inside.

Kaia, a German girl was also walking the track at the same time as me and we met up both evenings and discussed the days walk. I also met a Christchurch couple on the second and third days. Although I stayed at DOC campsites both nights, there are other accommodation options. Several hotels are situated along the track.

I took the opportunity to look around the Outward Bound School at Anakiwa while waiting for the boat back to Picton. I have always been interested in Outward Bound and the leadership and confidence building courses they provide so it was great to see the place and look around.

I am now back in Hamilton for 3 weeks and will start the North Island leg of the walk on 10th January. I wish you all a very Happy Xmas and may 2013 be good to you.