The Wairarapa Experience

Honeycomb Rock, near Glenburn Station

Long drop, Flat Point

The sudden appearance of a boat saved me a wet river crossing.

Near Castlepoint

Castlepoint

Paul rowed me across the river

Looking back towards Awitio

Since my last post I have continued to walk the coast of Wairarapa, where I have been treated with only kindness by the locals. On Monday 21st January I left Tora & walked 24km to Pohaoa on beaches and well graded vehicle tracks. Jenny from Tora very kindly went 20km out of her way to take my pack as far as she could before running out of tracks near the  Rerewhakaaitu River .  After uplifting my pack I had some tricky rocks to get around and then up a beach to Pohaoa where I spent the night in my tent in a private camping area. There were a couple of bach's and 5 caravans on site but not a soul around.

Shortly after setting off next morning I met a local fisherman who gave me advice about where to cross the Pohaoa River, which he told me would be knee high. In actual fact the water came up to my nipples!  The water was not fast flowing so no problems except some items in my pack got wet. Arrived at Glenburn Station after 15km for the day.  They employ a number of wwoofers on this sheep station, mainly to help out with servicing of the holiday homes. I stayed two nights and clipped a hedge and painted stable windows to pay for my keep. There were 4 German wwoofers who had been there a week, Sandra & Tim, Tito & Neeco, who all made me welcome and impressed me with the amount of food they eat in one sitting! Helen & John the owners of the station with the help of the wwoofers keep the place looking clean and tidy, with all of the buildings looking spick and span and no junk lying around.

On Thursday I set off thinking I would be carrying my pack all day but after 2km John came down the road and took my pack 5km. After collecting my pack I turned off onto Flat Point road and after 1km met Jay from Flat Point Station who took my pack on a further 5km. After a short farm track I followed the rocky beach for 6km and set up my tent beside the Kaiwhata River.

Friday was a big day of 25km most of it with the pack. Started off by walking 4km inland to Homewood Road. Ten Kilometers of road then brought me back to the beach. Two young lads took my pack for 1km along the beach. I later met up with them at the local dairy at Riversdale where I had enquired about camp sites.  Apparently the only public campsite closed down several years ago. A friend of the 2 boys appeared and saved the day by taking me to his grandparents, Zella & Patty, who manage a Children's Christian Adventure Camp. They happily gave me a bed in one of the dorm rooms. As I was the only person staying I had an en-suite bathroom with a choice of 2 toilets!

Saturday was another big day of 26km with the pack to Castlepoint, mostly along the beach. After 9km I came to the Whareama River which was quite deep and wide. I had seen nobody all morning and the river was deserted when I arrived. While checking out my options of where to walk across the river a boat appeared coming down river.  Responding to my waves the fishermen aboard gladly took me across the river.  The final section before Castlepoint was quite rocky and I had to walk in the sea a couple of times to get around. Then it was a very steep climb up a hill and down into Castlepoint.

I stayed at the Castlepoint Holiday Park for 3 nights and the manager Kerry happily sponsored me by not charging for my tent site. Over the previous two days I had developed a dull ache in my left heel so I stayed off my feet as much as possible while there. On the Monday I was interviewed by the Wairarapa Times Age newspaper and a good article and photo of me appeared in the Wednesdays edition. While walking near Riversdale I had found a lifejacket washed up on the beach and I received phone calls from the family of a fisherman, who had gone missing near Tora, and the local police. As it turned out it the lifejacket did not belong to the missing fisherman. While in Castlepoint I also met up again with Gordon the mailman, who had taken my pack to Ngawi, while he was on holiday in Castlepoint.

Because of my sore foot I had several days of short distances. On Tuesday I walked 11km up the beach to Mataikona. Ian the local mailman took my pack there and left it at the home of a local resident, Willie. On arrival at Willie's house he invited me in for a cup of tea and this turned into an invitation to stay the night. Willie, who has twice broken his neck, lives with his son Graham. We had fresh fish for dinner caught by Graham that day. Willie phoned Scott the manager of Owahanga Station and got permission for me to walk over their land the next day. He also arranged for a friend of his, Paul, to show me where to cross a river.

On Wednesday morning Willie took my pack to the start of the beach and I walked 12km to Owahanga. Fortuitously I met Scott after 9km and he took my pack the final 3km to Paul's place.
I stayed at Paul's place that night and accompanied him to a meeting at the local pub. On Thursday morning Paul rowed me across the river and I walked 10km to Akitio. Paul had arranged for Gonzo, a friend of his, to leave my pack at Bill and Diane's place. I was once again invited to stay and spent the night in a caravan at the back of the house. That evening I shared a BBQ dinner, beer and darts with Bill and Diane's house guests, 4 bank managers. Bill has 7 NZ darts titles to his name and a shelf in their bar area was crowded with trophies.

I set off on Friday morning expecting to carry my pack the whole 21km to Herbertville. However after 3km at Akitio Station I met up with Gonzo who offered to take my pack to the back boundary, 12km away!  I walked the 12km up a well graded farm road and found my pack. While eating lunch a Logging Contractor came along who agreed to take my pack into Herbertville. The final 6km was along the beach. We had been experiencing 30 c degree days recently and this day was no exception. Wherever possible I wetted my bandana and placed it under my sun hat. Diane
had phoned the custodians of the Herbertville camp to let them know I would be staying. On arrival the custodians, Pam & Hugh  provided me with a caravan free of charge for 2 nights.

Hugh & pam arranged for my pack to be taken onto my next destination, Porangahau, by another camper. They had also phoned and gained permission for me to walk through Tautane Station. As I was not quite sure where the farm track actually went I hope the staff at the station will forgive me for waking their dogs at 7.15am on a Sunday morning! I got temporaily lost trying to follow a paper road across the station and a 3km segment turned into 6km. The rest of the day was on roads. As my foot was still giving me problems I hitched the remaining 12km after walking 23km for the day. My pack had been left at the Porangahau pub and I bought a beer when I arrived to collect it. Talking to a couple of locals resulted in an offer of a ride 5km to the camp ground and a freshly caught blue cod from another!

On arrival at the camping ground it took me 3/4 hour  to find the manager Don, to check in. Don provided me with a cabin, at half price, for the night.

I had been due to return to Hamilton later this week for a few days off but because of my foot decided to head back early.  I arrived back here on Monday night after leaving Porangahau at 6.50am and hitch hiking to Taupo from where Charissa picked me up. I will rest my foot for a few days and once it is better return to Porangahau, where I have been offered accommodation from one of the people I hitched a lift with, and resume walking.

Wind, rain and more wind.

The start of State Highway One - Wellington Airport

Barneys Whare

The rear of Barneys Whare, where I spent the night.

John and his bach at Ocean Beach

Gordon the helpful mailman

Ngawi - bulldozers are used to launch the fishing boats

Looking back towards Cape Palliser

High & Dry

Jenny from Tora took my pack 20km out of her way.

The start of the North Island segment of the walk started in Wellington where I stayed for 3 nights at The Base Backpackers. This is the biggest backpackers I've stayed in yet. Despite the size the staff were really friendly and the place is well organised. Thanks to Dana and Hester for all their help.

I travelled to Wellington by bus on Wednesday 9th January and next day caught a bus to the airport and started walking from there. The wind was howling as I walked around the peninsula past Seatoun. I lost my good Bivouac bandana in the wind. Once around the peninsula I walked back to the airport and the start of SH1. Then into the city in the wind and rain and back to the backpackers for a total of 17km.

Friday saw me walking out of Wellington via the Railway Station and the Bluebridge and Interislander terminals. One of the worse parts of the walk so far was walking alongside the Hutt Highway with cars and trucks whizzing past. Then along the foreshore at Petone, alongside the Hutt River and then along the bays to Eastbourne. The ferry ride back to Wellington was great after a 26km walk.

On Saturday morning I signed out of the backpackers and caught a bus back to Eastbourne. A walk alongside the promenade brought me to the start of the coastal walk to Pencarrow Head. A locked gate keeps vehicles out and allows pedestrians and cyclist through. There were a few of each, including one young man walking the gravel road in carpet slippers! Just before the two lighthouses at Pencarrow I heard a noise of wheels on gravel directly behind me and on turning around found a large bus, closely followed by two others. They were taking tourists from a Cruise ship to a lodge. So much for no vehicles. At Baring Head the road turned to a 4wd track and I was hoping that the strong Southerly would disappear once I walked around the headland. No such luck, it turned to a Northerly!
After walking 22km my first attempt at camping was curtailed when the strongly gusting wind collapsed my tent! The first time this had happened to me. I then walked a further 3km and found what I thought was a sheltered spot but once again my tent was collapsed by the wind. Giving up using the tent I retreated to a locked Whare and slept on the porch behind that. Not much sleep though due to the wind and the birds in a nest above my head fidgeting all night!

The coastline in that area is rugged and beautiful. On Sunday morning after 9km I came upon a few baches at Ocean Beach. Calling at on of the baches for water, John invited me to stay the night. This was welcome after my sleepless night. John is an interesting character. In his 70's he still works part time as Land Surveyor. When in his 20's he was keen on geology and once discovered the skeleton of a 14th century Maori Chiefs son buried in the sand. The 4wd track I walked to get to Johns is a rough track and a few years ago John came across a couple in a car trying to drive to Wellington along it. He put them right and put them up for the night. They were driving a Rolls Royce, so that was parked outside his bach for the night. Not far from Johns place isa luxury lodge. Some years ago he and a mate were walking on the beach when they were approached by a man walking the opposite way "good morning gentlemen, my names Bill Clinton, you may have heard of me"! So I can now say i've shaken hands with a man who's shaken hands with Bill Clinton!

The week before I arrived John had been bitten by a dog which had previously bitten someone else and was supposed to be muzzled in public. The wound on his leg was inflamed and as he was heading into town next day to get it looked at again, he agreed to take my pack part of the way. My next destination was Lake Ferry only about 8km along the beach. However a lake empties into the sea there and so I had to make a 44km road detour. Setting off early I walked 16km along a good road and then waited for John with my pack. Once again the wind was blowing. Another 12km brought me to a main road and from there I hitchhiked 18km into Lake Ferry and the Motor Camp. Due to wind and rain I booked into a cabin for 3 nights rather than stay in my tent. The owner of the camp Mary helped sponsor me by only charging for 2 nights.

The next day Mary also generously drove me back to where i'd hitchhiked form the day before and I walked through yet more wind and rain to the cabin. Three people offered me a ride that day. The first vehicle to stop was a police car!

Wednesday was a rest day for me and guess what, no wind!

Mary had given me the name of the local Rural Delivery driver Gordon. On Thursday Gordon took my pack to Ngawi. Meeting him on the road he also gave me the address off Richie & Barbara where I could stop for a break after 21km. They made me very welcome and after tea and cake saw me on my way with fresh vegetables from their garden. 6km from Ngawi it was not only windy but wet and hailing so I hitched the remaining 6km. After collecting my pack from where Gordon had left it I managed to find someone with a room to rent as I was not keen on camping in the wind and rain.

On Friday I hitched back to where I had left off the day before and walked back to Ngawi. I had intended to move on that day but the weather was once again baked bean weather, wet and windy! So I had a lazy day reading.

On Saturday morning I was was away at 7.30 toward Cape Palliser. For 2km I walked with Kevin who was staying in the area for the long weekend. Another 9km along 4wd tracks brought me to White Rocks. Frank a local farmer gave me vege from his garden and a very welcome cold ginger beer. After walking 16km for the day I set up my tent in the White Rocks camp ground. The first time in my tent in the North Island. It had been a good day walking with no wind but by early evening the wind had started. I did manage to drift off to sleep twice during the night but it was a sleepless night as the wind blew the tent flat. The only other tent there was wrecked during the night and the occupants took refuge in their car.

After leaving camp this morning I crossed a river and then walked 12km along a 4wd drive track and a metal road to Tora. Three years ago I did the Tora Walk, this is a farm walk over 3 days where your packs are carried on each day and a meal is provided each night. I called in to see if there were any spare beds in the walkers accommodation tonight but they were all full. However Alastair invited me to stay in their home tonight. Today there has been no wind or rain and tonight I will sleep in a bed. Alastair and Jenny have opened their home to me and made me really welcome. Jenny has also kindly given me the use of her laptop to update this blog.

In the last 10 days I have walked 183km. Its mostly been roads and 4wd tracks with more of the same over coming days.

North Island Here I Come

I have had a relaxing 3 weeks with Charissa in Hamilton and caught up with family and friends. It's now time to start walking again.

Tomorrow (9th January) I travel to Wellington by bus. Weather depending, on Thursday I will commence walking the North Island. Rain and gale force winds are predicted for Thursday, so I may delay the start until Friday.  While in Wellington I will be staying at The Base backpackers who are sponsoring me. A big thanks to Hester and Dana for organizing this and allowing it to happen.

Thanks to Kirsty from Bivouac Outdoors for once again giving me a generous discount on items purchased for the walk. I will be recommencing with a new pair of tramping boots as my last pair were well and truly worn out. Not only were the heels worn down but they had holes in the uppers which let sand get into the linings which then rubbed my feet.

As there are no major towns directly on the East Coast until I get to Napier it may be sometime until I can write the next post here. I will endeavor to write again, as soon as I can.

Queen Charlotte Sounds Walkway

Weka stole my lunch!

As I had a few days to spare after arriving in Picton, before my ferry booking to Wellington. I walked the Queen Charlotte Walkway. Many thanks to Cougar Lines who sponsored me by providing a 50% discount on the boat trip. The Walkway is 71km long and I took the Cougar Line boat to Ships Cove to start the walk and they ferried my pack on each day and then collected me at the end from Anakiwa and took me back to Picton.

I really enjoyed the 3 day walk. The views on both sides are fabulous, the gradients are not too steep and as most of the walk is under the bush canopy, it wasn't too hot. While eating lunch on the first day I put my sandwich down on the seat alongside me and a couple of cheeky Weka stole it while I wasn't looking. This is not the first time I have been mugged by birds!  That night Weka also dragged my toilet bag away from my tent, possibly trying to get at the fish oil tablets inside.

Kaia, a German girl was also walking the track at the same time as me and we met up both evenings and discussed the days walk. I also met a Christchurch couple on the second and third days. Although I stayed at DOC campsites both nights, there are other accommodation options. Several hotels are situated along the track.

I took the opportunity to look around the Outward Bound School at Anakiwa while waiting for the boat back to Picton. I have always been interested in Outward Bound and the leadership and confidence building courses they provide so it was great to see the place and look around.

I am now back in Hamilton for 3 weeks and will start the North Island leg of the walk on 10th January. I wish you all a very Happy Xmas and may 2013 be good to you.

Done it - South Island

I had celebratory dinner last night to mark the completion of my walk of the South Island.  But that is getting ahead of myself.

On Saturday 8th December after 4 nights in Blenheim I walked to Rarangi Beach. On the way out of Blenheim I came across an outdoors market, those of you who know me will also know that I couldn't resist stopping and checking for bargains. I found a few too, but due to weight constraints had to leave most of them behind, although I did buy a couple of small items.

The first 10km were on SHI and then 10km down side roads to the beach. Was offered two lifts on the way, once by a farmer. Then just short of my destination Joe & Steph, a pleasant young couple, stopped and were disappointed that I didn't want a ride. They were interested to know where I was going and what I was doing. They asked lots of questions and gave me strawberries and a book to read.

It started to rain just before I got to the DOC campsite but stopped as I was putting up my tent. Later Pam who looks after 12 DOC campsites called around. She couldn't find my camp fee envelope even though I had posted it in the correct slot. After much poking with a stick and posting other objects through the slot my envelope finally fell out. I had started to think that Pam thought I was lying about paying. She gave me a ride up the hill above the camp so that I could see if the road or  the track was the better option the following day.

Next day I walked up the scenic track to Whites Bay and called in at Pam's cottage for a cup of tea. She thought she knew someone looking for workers but several phone calls later it turned out her friend had filled his quota of vineyard workers.  Only walked a total of 10km that day, to Robinhood Bay. Set up in another DOC campsite and had a sociable night with Max a German travelling on his own, Marco & Sandie another German couple, Dave a Kiwi tour guide and another couple who's name I have forgotten. A nice evening drinking wine and beer swapping travel stories was had by all.

Marco & Sandie were travelling in the same direction as me the next day and agreed to take on my pack on. As I wasn't sure of where I would get to that night, we arranged that I would set off walking early and would get my pack once they caught me up. I was away at 6.25am and had walked 12.5km up the road and past several bays by the time they caught me up at 8.50am. A quick thanks and farewell and they were off to catch the ferry to Wellington. Helped again by strangers.

Another 2.5 km up the road I found a sign advertising backpackers and camping. All the beds were taken by a forestry gang but Sandra offered me a tent site  free of charge. It was still morning but 28c were forecasts and it was already quite hot so I was grateful for a place to camp. A gold coin bought me a welcome shower. I had been told that Sandra cooked a good evening meal and this proved to be the case. $10 bought me soup and toast, roast lamb & vege, cheesecake & fruit. She also had a spare packed lunch and gave me that. I was also able to help myself to toast for breakfast. The bargain of the century.

Sandra's husband Ray works at Queen Charlotte College in Picton as the International Student Coordinator and yesterday morning he brought my pack into town with him.  I walked the 15km into Picton, 4km uphill and the rest downhill along a tar sealed road that showed the signs of the high temperature the day before. I collected my pack from the school and arranged with Ray that I would return this morning to talk to a group of 11 year olds about my walk.

After booking into the Atlantis Backpackers and having a shower I walked the few metres to the ferry terminal to complete my walk of the South Island. It seems surreal that I have now finished this part of the journey. Total walked since I started is 1735km.

This morning I gave a 50minute talk to 36 11 year olds. I was pleasantly surprised how many insightful questions were asked. Thanks to their teacher Dave who has loaned me his laptop to update this blog.

Thanks to Cougar Cruises who have offered me a 50% discount off the cost of the boat trip out to the start of the Queen Charlotte Sounds walk tomorrow. I will take 3 days and two nights to do the walk and they will take my pack on each day. Next Tuesday I take the ferry to Wellington and then fly back to Hamilton for 3 weeks recuperation over Xmas and New Year.

Nearly There - South Island

Tent site amongst the lupins

Railway bridge, Clarence River 

Dead Sperm Whale, north of Clarence

Natural rock arch Wharanui beach

Nicola, Wharanui

Whare, where I spent the night on Cape Campbell Walkway

I have now walked a total of 1680km and only a few days to go until I complete the South Island part of my walk. Picton, where I catch the ferry to the North Island is only 28km away by the direct route, but as usual I will be taking the long way around.

On my final night at the Albatross Backpackers in Kaikoura they had a curry night, very nice too. On Sunday 25th November I was away at 8.30am and walked on the beach past the Whale Watch offices and eventually to Hapuku 14km up the coast. The beach was mostly shingle and I got wet feet crossing the Hapuke River. I saw one lone dolphin, usually they are in pairs. There is a toilet at Hapuku but no running water so I called at a local house to refill my water bottles. My tent site was amongst yellow lupins with a view of snow capped mountains inland. Perfect!

The following day I was away at 7.30am and walked up the beach for 5km before having to walk on SH1 for 9km. The road here was better than south of Kaikoura to walk on with either wide verges or crash barriers. Usually there is just enough room to walk behind the barriers. The railway track mostly runs alongside the road and at one place there was major track work going on replacing the wooden sleepers with concrete ones. I exchanged greetings with some of the workers who I had met at Goose Bay. I walked past two seal colonies where cars were stopped and people watching the seals. As I have seen thousands of seals I didn't stop. I did stop and watch later though, to watch seals diving in and out of the surf like dolphins. I found a camping ground at Waipapa Bay which I didn't know about, so stopped there for the night after 15km for the day. The owner, Cheryl, agreed to sponsor me by not charging for my tent site. There was a good shower and toilet block, the shower was particularly welcome.

Goudie, who was staying in a caravan opposite me works on the railway and told me that replacing the wooden sleepers with concrete ones costs $1.3 million per km! Gordie kindly donated a bottle of sparkling water and pork strips to my dinner that night.

The next morning I had a 5km walk up the beach before once again being forced onto SH1 due to the Clarence River. It was only about a kilometre from the beach to the road but half of this was through a pine forest which took me over an hour to get through. The problem was that the trees had been pruned and all the prunings were on the ground and had to be climbed over. I walked through Clarence and then regained the beach. Some kilometres ahead I could see diggers working close to the beach. I also became aware of a large object and as I got closer I realised it was the dead Sperm Whale I had heard about. I stopped to take photos but had to be careful trying to get a shot from the sea side as the tide was coming in. I could see the railway workers pointing in my direction and I thought maybe they thought I shouldn't be taking photos. However, when I climbed the bank and spoke to them they told me that, as I was taking the photos, a 1m shark was thrashing around in the surf! It had obviously smelt the decaying whale. I saw nothing of interest or any other people for several kilometres in either direction and the whale had come ashore right in front of where these guys were working!

Due to Health & Safety regulations, I was asked to take a wide berth around the diggers but once on the other side I was given a cup of tea and had my water bottle refilled. After another 1.5km I found a great spot to camp just off the beach.

On Wednesday I walked 17km up the beach to Kekerengu. There is a cafe there and I decided to shout myself a big lunch. While discussing the beach ahead with the staff, my waitress told me she lived 10km up the beach at Wharanui in a flat with other cafe staff.  Nicola offered me a bed at the flat and I gratefully accepted. I hung around the cafe reading for the rest of the day and at the end of the shift Nicola drove us to the flat, an old 4 bedroom farm house. I met the other occupants Fiona & John, a pleasant young Irish couple. Before dinner we all walked to the beach so that I would know where to come off the beach the following day.

On Thursday morning Nicola drove me to Seddon so that I could replenish my food supplies. We also dropped my pack at Ward, where I was heading the day after. When Nicola started work I caught a ride with her then walked the 10km back to the flat where I spent a second night. There is an unusual natural rock archway on the beach at Wharanui as well as a couple of seal colonies.

I was away at 7.30am on Friday after saying farewell to Nicola and thanking her for all her kindness.
A 3.5km walk up the beach to the Ure River and I was blown by a strong southerly 11.5km up SH1. My pack and I were reunited at the A1 Motel in Ward where they also have tent sites. The manager Julz agreed to sponsor me by not charging for the tent site. There is a really nice kitchen and lounge area and, as I was the only one staying, I had it all to myself. In the evening I phoned the owners of the Cape Campbell Walkway and was given permission to walk their private track. Sleep didn't come easy that night with trucks rumbling up SH1 all night, the local fire siren going off at 11.30pm and drunks walking and yelling up the road at 2.45am!

A 3km walk on Saturday brought me to the home of Peter and Carol one of the owners of the Cape Campbell walkway. Over a cuppa they gave me directions for the next two days. They farm over 4000 acres and the 6th generation was recently born on the farm. After a gradual climb up a farm track I walked along a ridge alongside fences for 4km. This is all hilly sheep/beef country with good views out to sea. I arrived at The Whare, an old shepherds hut, one of the day shelters on the walkway, where I spent the night.

On Sunday I continued on the walkway to Cape Campbell lighthouse over Rob and Sally's land. The wind was blowing so hard that it actually stopped me in my tracks several times. I had lunch in a sheltered spot under the lighthouse and then walked 6km up the coast to Marfells Beach.   Making my way around a headland I came across 5 people waiting for the tide recede enough to get their 4 wheel farm bikes around. They were quite surprised to see me appear suddenly, as if I'd emerged form the sea. Camped at a DOC campsite that night.

Monday 3rd December saw me away at 7.20am before anyone else was up. The first 8km was up the beach and I walked past the saltworks at Lake Grassmere. It was a different landscape for the next 12km up mostly gravel roads past vineyard after vineyard. It was pleasing to have wide grass verges to walk on. I stopped for a rest at one stage and became aware of classical music being played to the grapes! I booked into the camping ground at Seddon. The kitchen and shower facilities all have a seedy atmosphere and there were several semi-permanent residents living there while working at the vineyards.

Leaving at 7.30am on Tuesday I walked 4km on SH1 and then 10km down Redwood Pass and Renners Roads. Once again it was vineyards all the way. At the end of Renners Rd, I found what I initially thought was Domain but turned out to be private property. I met Peter Wells who is a Taxidermist but has branched out to making carbon fibre walking sticks. Thanks to Peter my stick Pak 'n' Save now sports a leather lanyard and a rubber stopper! He and his wife live in a house his father in law built. It is built into a bank, has a turf roof and cant be seen from the land side. The front of the house looks out over the ocean.

Unfortunately, their dog decided to follow me down the beach. despite much yelling and pleading on my part she would not go home. I thought several times that she had gone home only for her to reappear from the scrub. After 3km I thought I would have to take her back myself but when I stopped for lunch she eventually left. Later I texted Peter to make sure she got home OK and he texted back that she was home and "buggered"! He thanked me for tiring her out!

The tide was on the way out and I was able to walk on a a narrow shingle beach beneath cliffs for 3km until I reached Boulder Bank. As there is a large uncrossable river mouth at the other end I had to turn inland.
As I walked up what I thought was a public road I came across Chris and Simon. They are contractors who spend 7 months a year grubbing out Chilean Tussock, an invasive weed. It turns out it was not a public road but a farm track. A phone call to the farm manger Paul by Chris brought me permission to walk to the road. As Chris and Simon were just finished work for the day and returning the next day they agreed to take me into Blenheim where I booked into a backpackers. Finding a backpackers was easy, finding one to stay in proved more difficult. The first was full of young vineyard workers who liked to drink all night and I was advised to try elsewhere. The second place I tried was closed for two hours, the third I could find nobody about, the 4th had closed down for good! Finally I found "The Grapevine" where I am staying now for a few days.

Yesterday I was up early and Chris & Simon gave me a ride back to where they picked me up from. They carried on grubbing and I walked into Blenheim via the farm track, a minor road then SH1. There were a few showers on the way but just before I got into Blenheim it rained harder.

As I have another 12 days until I catch the ferry to Wellington and its not far to Picton I am hoping to get some casual work here.

I have recently changed some settings  which hopefully will make it easier for those of you who have been trying to send me comments on this blog. So if you have experienced problems sending a comment, please try again. Adding photos to this post will have to wait until I get back to Hamilton for Xmas as I'm unable to load photos from this computer at the library.

Kaikoura Experience

Sperm whale

I have now been in Kaikoura for 4 days. When I arrived on Wednesday I booked into the Albatross Backpackers for a few nights of luxury. Katie, Ben and David all made me welcome. They run a very friendly establishment, on my first night they and the staff put on a Thanksgiving dinner. This was a very pleasant evening with lots to eat and good company. It was nice to socialise after so much time on my own.

On Thursday I walked the 12km Kaikoura Walkway and was amazed how much effort and money have been put into it, with part of the track paved to allow wheelchair access and landscaping walls alongside. If only a fraction the money had been spent on the Port Robinson Walkway it could be kept open for the next 50 years! Good views are to be had all the way around the walkway.

Yesterday I visited the local Museum and was also interviewed by the Kaikoura Star and Marlborough Express newspapers. I was due to go on a Whale Watching trip in the afternoon but this was cancelled as no Whales had been sighted all day. However my booking was transferred to this morning. Last night I set my phone alarm for 6am and was worried I would wake the other people in the dorm. When the fire alarm klaxon went off at 11.30pm I came out of a deep sleep in a panic wondering how I'd managed to set such a load alarm on my phone! The alarm was because someone in another room had put a sweater over a heater!

A HUGE thanks to Whale Watch Kaikoura for sponsoring me by providing a complimentary Whale Watch experience. It was one of the things on my list to accomplish and I was not disappointed. While we only saw one whale, it was a great trip. The sperm whale was the same size as the boat and resting on the ocean. It then dived and we returned an hour later when it resurfaced. In the intervening hour, we saw dozens of dolphins leaping in and out of the water. It was a brilliant day on the water and a magical experience. Thanks again Whale Watch.

This is my last night in Kaikoura at the Albatross where tonight it is Curry Night so I'm looking forward to that. Thanks to Katie & Ben who are sponsoring me by providing a free room tonight.

I have really enjoyed my time here and the evening chats, cheese and wine with Sally and Cedric on holiday here from Guernsey. I hope you folks enjoy the rest of your holiday. Hope you enjoy the book Cedric.

Those who know me will know that I'm obliged  to say I only got this photo by fluke!

In case your wondering if I went overboard to get this photo. It is in fact another boat in the same fleet.