The Last Post

Im not sure if I will be making further posts here but I just liked the title.

Well folks I finally made it!  After 2.5 years and 4400km I reached Cape Reinga on Thursday 27th March at 12 noon.  Man it felt good to finally finish. After reaching the lighthouse and being greeted by a dozen friends and family I then made my way down to the beach and washed my hands in the sea. As this is what I did when I left Bluff. While I was there I collected my friends Gwen and Ringi who had gone to the beach in the mistaken belief that I would walk around the rocks. Instead I came along the Coastal Walkway. Once we were back at the lighthouse we assembled in the car park, I made a short speech and we all had bubbly, kindly supplied by Charissa.

Friends & Family

More friends

My granddaughter Kaylah. You can just make out three dots on the beach, myself Gwen and Ringi.

But I am getting ahead of myself.

After being holed up at the Rockhouse Backpackers for two days waiting for the remains of Cyclone Lusi to blow through  I was keen to get back on the road again on Monday 17th March. It was 10km of walking on the main road to Awanui where I booked into a run down motel unit behind the hotel. Another 17km of road walking brought me to Kaimaumau Road, from where I hitched back to Awanui.

It took over an hour to get a ride next morning and I was then dropped off 5 km from my start point so it was 10am before I "officially" started to walk. It is 11 km down Kaimaumau Road to East Beach. I originally intended walking to the camp at Houhora Heads but after 3 people warned me about a deep stream I turned up a farm track, after 12km, and 2 km before Houhora. The track eventually led me to a farmhouse where Croydon gave me tea and bickies along with directions to the road. From there I hitched into Pukenui and stayed at the camp. Although I'd walked 32 km (all with the pack) I could only count 27 km for the day. I must have looked like I needed feeding up as Juan a young Argentinian, one of several seasonal orchard workers living at the camp, gave me water melon and avocado. This started a trend for the next few days of people giving me food!

Next morning Jo, the camp owner, was heading south and dropped me off at my start point. It was an easy 3 km road walk back to the camp where I picked up my pack, bought supplies at the shop and headed north 13 km up SH1 and then 4 km of metal road to Rawara Beach. I met Eric & Tony, two guys in their 60's who have been mates since childhood, on a boys camping trip. They were due to start heading home next day and explained that they had brought too much food with them. Would I help them out?  I'm pleased to report that I did my best to help them diminish their food and beer supplies! I had two platefuls of steak, pork chops, potato, green beans & peas.

When I set off on Thursday morning they gave me ham and a bag of tomatoes. I walked 13 km up the beach along Greta Expectation Bay. On the way I met Bobby and his two adult nephews fishing, they donated a bag of feijoa's and a bag of home baking to my food supplies! A vehicle track crosses the sand spit which the locals call "The Crossing" and which I christened 'The Sahara Crossing" as it is all sand with little vegetation. After hiding my pack in the sand dunes I then recrossed the crossing and walked another 15 km around Kokota (the Sandspit). After collecting my pack I failed to find a vehicle track marked on my map and headed across the sand dunes and eventually made camp in the dunes after 35 km for the day. My tent pegs were useless in the sand but I managed to find an old fence baton which I smashed into spike shaped pieces and they did the job.

The Sahara Crossing

On Friday morning I turned off the beach after 1 km and took a forestry track 6 km to SH1. I saw two cars and a logging truck on the forestry track, the second car stopped. I thought I was going to be told off for trespassing but the driver asked me where I was from. He then told me that  the TV news had reported that the police were looking for me as my family were worried about me! I explained that it must be a case of mistaken identity as I had received texts from my family the night before. I was fascinated to watch him, as he had a quarter inch of cigarette stuck to his lip which moved up and down as he talked. Once on the main road I did another 10km before it rained and I then hitched into Waitiki Landing. I booked into "The Dungeon" a windowless room, but at least it had a bed and I hadn't been sleeping very well in my tent. I was to stay here 3  nights during which time Lyle the manager donated snapper fillets and eggs to my menu. I also met Ron an Australian who had just biked from Bluff to Cape Reinga in 47 days so I helped him celebrate with a beer. The dungeon was blacker than a black cat in a coal locker at midnight and I slept soundly, the sound was me snoring!

It took  nearly as long to hitch back to my start point next day as it did to walk the 10km back to Waitiki Landing. As I was now ahead of schedule I took Sunday off.

It was an easy 15km of road walking to Spirits Bay on Monday where I set up my tent in the DOC camp. From there the Cape Reinga Walkway starts.

On Tuesday I walked 3km up the beach to Pandora where there is a small DOC shelter and then 14km up a track over hills to Taputaputo Bay. I set up my tent for the last time and spent two nights here. I met Tony and Kath who loaned me a magazine, as I was out of reading material, and bought me chocolate when they went out. Also Lesley and Colin gave me newspapers and muesli bars as well as selling me a gas bottle. On the first night my tent was full of mosquitoes but the wind kept them at bay on the second night.

Finally on Thursday morning I set off to cover the remaining 5km to Cape Reinga.  Up and down a couple of steep hills. Then there was my son Adam, daughter in law Adele, grandson Cory and granddaughter Kaylah who had walked down to meet me. Nearly there Poppy!

On the final approach to Cape Reinga, up and down a couple of hills.

Holed Up In Karikari Peninsula As Storm Blows Through

On Friday 7th March I caught a bus back to Kerikeri. Bob picked me up from the bus stop and I spent another pleasant stay with him and Helen. Next day I walked on roads towards Matauri Bay. Jan a rural postie took my pack 3km and I collected it from the local gas station, where I was given oranges. After 25km I then hitched to Matauri Bay and booked into the camp. Next morning I hitched back and walked the remaining 17km back to camp. In the afternoon I visited the Rainbow Warrior memorial above the camp. The ship is now a dive wreck, not far off the coast.

Rainbow Warrior memorial Matauri Bay

After a 2nd night of poor sleep in my tent, I left Matauri Bay and headed for Whangaroa 25km away, all on roads. There were some spectacular views looking back down on Matauri Bay. At Wainui Bay I met Sailor walking on the road. We walked together for a couple of kms.  He's in his twenties and as we walked he told me about his life. He has 7 brothers and sisters, although his father has 15 children!  I had my big pack and Sailor wasn't carrying anything but I found I easily outpaced him up the hills and had to keep slowing down. Later a van stopped to offer me a ride and agreed to take my pack the final 7km to the camp.  Once at the camp I booked into a cabin and finally got a good nights sleep, despite the dozens of mosquito's in the room .

Next day I called in at a Farm Hostel after 12kkm but it was full. I managed 22km on SH10 towards Mangonui when a couple of Brazilian tourists did a u turn to offer me a ride.  I booked into a small backpackers room at the Mangonui Hotel. I was disappointed with the pub meal that night as the steak was full of gristle. Two things made me smile. One of the toilets at the pub was out of order and the sign said "Sorry for any inconvenience". The local shop had a bin of dated stock, one of the items was a box of condoms!

It took 30 minutes next morning to get a ride back to where I'd been picked up the day before and I walked the 12km back to the pub and collected my pack. The local information centre had advised me that there is a backpackers at Cable Bay. I walked 5km via roads and Coopers Beach to Cable Bay only to discover there are lots of B&B's but no backpackers. Jane, the local shopkeeper, was heading to Kaitia and gave me a ride to The Rockhouse Backpackers on Karikari Peninisular. Tonight will be my 5th night here.

This is quite a small establishment with just 6 backpackers beds. I have a large room with a small kitchen, an en-suite shower and toilet, for $30 a night. On Thursday I hitched back to Cable Bay and walked back here where I had lunch and then headed for Tokerau Beach via a rough track. I took a wrong turning and ended up crashing through gorse, scrub and an overgrown dry lake bed. Once on the beach I realized that I'd lost my bandana in the scrub. It was the 3rd one I'd lost so far and had been with me since Wellington. Once on the beach I removed my boots and walked for 9km down the sandy beach. Years ago this used to be the only way in and was used as a road. There is a 30km hour speed limit on the beach but twice I was passed by cars doing what seemed like 100km. At the end of the beach I walked to Matai Bay Rd and, after having takeaways for dinner, hitched back here having walked 24km for the day.

Friday was a big day of 34km. Initially it was going to be a day off but as a large storm was forecast for Saturday and Sunday I decided to take those days off instead. I easily got a ride back to my start point and walked towards Matai Bay. A track leads down to Karikari Beach and I walked the entire 6km  of beautiful sandy beach without seeing anyone. In fact I spoke to nobody all day.  I followed cattle tracks around the rocky headland between  Karikari Beach and Puwheke Beach. Another 3km of beach brought me to a vehicle track, 6km of roads then 7km of rough vehicle track and finally 4km of road. It had been threatening to rain all day and there had been a few short showers. Once I reached the main road and tried to hitch the rain started in earnest, so I phoned Ian the owner of the backpackers and he kindly picked me up.

Karikari Beach

Yesterday it was baked bean weather, wet and windy, as Cyclone Lusi made its way south. There has been no major damage here but further south there has been flooding and power cuts.

I'm still on track to make the final 156 km's to Cape Reinga on Thursday 27th March at 12 noon.

About a dozen or so family and friends have said they will be there to greet me and I'm really looking forward to that.

Last Leg

Tomorrow I catch the bus to Kerikeri and on Saturday start the final leg of my journey. Although "final leg" may not be the right expression when referring to a walk.

I don't usually preplan where I will be on a particular day but in this case I have calculated my end date and time, as several people have expressed a desire to be at Cape Reinga when I get there.

Please put the following into your diary:

12 noon on Thursday 27th March.

Apart from WW3 breaking out or any such major disaster I will stick to that date and time.  I have allowed a few rest days between now and then. If I should get delayed at any stage I will abandon rest days until I catch up.

It does seem unreal to be finally coming to the finish.

See you all on the 27th.

Nearing The Top & The End

On Thursday 27th February I reached Kerikeri in the far north.

 My hosts in Whangarei, Lisca, Rhianon & Chris had arranged accommodation at Whangarei Heads with friends of theirs Gary & Sue. On Wednesday 12th February Chris dropped my pack at Gary's workplace, so I had an easy walk through Whangarei and over the new river bridge. After walking on the road I took a walkway around the coast past Onerahi. The rest of the 32km for the day was on the road. On the way I met Kip who owns a B&B, he offered me a free bed for the night. When I explained that I already had a bed for the night he said "well if they mistreat you, come back here".  At Parua Bay I bought the local paper with an article about my walk. The photo was taken in such a way that my feet took up the biggest part of it. Sue and Gary looked after me with a pleasant room, food and conversation. They entertained me with their travel stories.

I only managed 16km next day but it was a hard days walking. Initially along the road and then by walking tracks to WW2 gun emplacements and then to Smugglers Cove. I was pleased not to have my pack with me as what came next on the Bream Head Track was a series of steps up past Mt Lion. I stopped often as the steps just went on and up, then up some more. When I thought it couldn't go up any more, it did! Then more, and yet more again!  The 5km to Ocean Beach took 3.5 hours. Once there, I texted Gary who brought my pack and I set up my tent.

Smugglers Cove from part way up the Bream Head Track

Next morning I got wet feet trying to get around a rocky outcrop, then had to retrace my steps and go over a high sandbank. After 6km of beach I turned onto Kauri Mountain Rd and then onto a track over Kauri Mountain (just 245m high). Later as I was walking on the road again Roz and Hugh stopped and invited me to their B&B, Tidesong, for lunch. Over lunch I learnt that last year Hugh had a kidney transplant and Ros provided the kidney. After a large lunch I didn't feel like going much further and so I was given a room for the night (and later dinner) at very a reasonable rate.

Hugh and son Bruce ferried my pack 2km up the estuary next morning while Ros walked with me up the road. Shortly after I crossed the Pataua footbridge across an estuary. 14km of road then brought me to the Mackarel Forest Track. Despite being overgrown I really enjoyed this stretch of track, as it meandered beside a pine plantation and a stream. Another 4km of road walking brought me back to the main road where I hitched to Tutukaka. I was picked up by Peter who not only knew my hosts from last night but also my sons boss in Whangamata. I booked into a backpackers room at the Motor Camp for 3 nights after walking 20km for the day.

Ros,Hugh & Bruce. 

The following day I hitched back to my start point and walked the 20km back to the camp mostly on roads but also over rocks along the coast. Monday was a rest day and I did a short walk to a lighthouse.

When I set off on Tuesday it was threatening rain but we only had a few spits. On the way to Matapouri my pack was taken on for about a km. Once at Matapouri I left my pack with the helpful male shopkeeper who was wearing a lovely short white dress.  I walked along the beach and then the Whalebay Walkway before returning and collecting my pack. From Sandy Bay a 6km walkway took me to Whananaki where I walked across the 400m pedestrian bridge to the Motor Camp. The weather didn't look too promising so I booked into a cabin. Later a fine misty rain rolled in and stayed for the next couple of days.

Footbridge at Whananaki

After 2 days and 3 nights I left Whananaki on Friday 21st at 8am and followed the Te Araroa trail through pine forests and bush. The track was quite steep and slippery in places after the rain. It took 6 hours to cover 10km, including an hour I lost after taking a wrong turning and having to retrace my steps. Later, on the road, I hitched to Whangaruru and stayed at the Motor Camp.
Next morning I hitched back and Bill picked me up and went 4km out of his way to drop me at my start point. It was just a 13km walk back to the camp.

On Sunday it was a 12km walk on a sealed road to The Farm where I appeared to be the only guest at this very busy backpackers. The owners Ellen and Michael have 9 children and also employ a lot of  WWOOFERS to help out with school camps, horse treks and trail bike riding. I was given a room with an ensuite for $20.

On Monday I walked 21km along roads, stopping for lunch at lovely Te Uenga Bay where people were kayaking and swimming in the blue water. At Jacks Bay I was offered a ride to Russell. Bruce dropped me off at the Oranga Bay Holiday Park. The cabins were too expensive for me and the tent sites were the most expensive I've come across yet at $25, although they discounted it to $22. As Don the owner was going into Russell later he agreed to take me in to do some shopping.  When we got back his wife Angela said " well you should be very happy, you've had good value for $22". I met a family staying at the camp who live in Whangamata and know my son and daughter in law. When they read about me in their local paper they had gone down to the road to wait with oranges, but I'd already gone past. Hopefully the oranges were for eating not throwing!

Next morning as I left the camp I noticed a, newly placed, blackboard sign saying "Tent Sites from $19". Bruce who picked me up the day before owned the local school buses and so I was able to get a ride back to my start point on a school bus. It was 10km of road walking back to the camp, on the way I picked up an expired passport on the side of the road, so I placed it in the next mailbox I came to. I wonder what the people thought when they next collected their mail! As my Sherpas did not turn up again I had to carry my own pack for the rest of the day. A 4km track that seemed much longer, due to some steep bits, took me to Okiato. Unusually I saw lots of other people walking the track. At Okiato I took the ferry to Opua, a bargain at $1! A 6km coastal track then took me to Paihia where I stayed in a backpackers for two nights

Wednesday was a day off and I took the ferry to Russell and back. On Thursday I left Paihia and walked to Kerikeri via Waitangi. At Mt Bledisloe I turned into the forest and was confronted by a sign saying it was closed to the public, due to logging operations. I phoned the DOC number displayed on the sign and spoke to Steve. He is that most unusual of people, friendly, helpful and knowledgable. He advised me that, as my route would not go through the logging area, I could proceed. After 11km of forestry road I then walked on public roads to Kerikeri and past the Stone Store to the home of Bob & Helen, relatives of friends. They have a lovely home and a large garden complete with a waterfall. Bob welcomed me with home brew.

Outside Stone Store Kerikeri, one of NZ's oldest buildings

On Friday morning Bob drove me back into Kerikeri from where I caught the bus to Hamilton.
I am here for a week and then back to Kerikeri and the final segment to Cape Reinga.

Total walked so far = 4122km.

Getting There (Now in Whangarei)

I restarted walking on Saturday 1st February with a 32km day. From Arkles Bay on Whangarporoa Peninisula, I took a mixture of footpaths and roads to Gulf Harbour and then walkways and  paths to Shakespear Park. My map showed the end of the peninsula to be Defence Force land and not to be entered but, as it was low tide, I was able to walk around it and beyond. After 3 hours of walking on the beach the tide was coming in, which resulted in wet feet as I edged around a sea cave. Just beyond the cave were steep rocks where someone had, conveniently, placed a rope. As I pulled myself over the edge I came face to boot with two startled Asian fishermen. " where you come from?" I eventually arrived in Orewa where I watched a Busker Festival and ate Chinese Takeaways for dinner.

Te Horui Bay, Whangaparoa Peninsula

On Sunday I felt tired, the pack felt heavy and I couldn't get into walking. Consequently I only covered 10km from Orewa to the Wenderholm Regional Park and booked into the camping ground.

I covered a more respectable 21km on Monday to Warkworth, all on roads. Most of it on State Highway 1.
My room at The Oaks Backpackers in Warkworth was hot and the window would only open a couple of inches, also a couple of other guests kept me awake cooking at 11.15 pm and using the computer, on the other side of the wall from my bed, until 12.30 am.

On Tuesday Kumal took my pack 10km to Matakana and I collected it from his work later than morning. Jackie stopped 4km down the road to offer a lift and took my pack the last 4km to Whangateau Holiday Park where I set up my tent. I spent the afternoon reading, in the lounge, and on returning to the tent I found that someone had set up a monster sized tent directly in front of it. My little tent looked like a pimple in comparison. The occupant of the bigger tent snored all night.

Wednesday was another 18km day, all on roads, firstly to Leigh. Traffic became lighter and the road turned to gravel and back to tar seal on the way to Pakiri. Two people stopped to offer rides but as I did not know where I would be stopping I carried my pack all day. Once at Pakiri Beach I hitch hiked into Wellsford, from where Mark Page collected me and I spent 2 nights staying with him and Loma. They are contractors to the company I used to work for and had invited me to stay once I reached their neck of the woods. Or perhaps that should be neck of the bush, as they have 500 acres of regenerating bush. They have no electricity or cell phone coverage. Next day they took me for a walk around and showed me the property. Possums, rats, stoats and weasels are being trapped, goats and pigs shot and neighbors cattle fenced off. Mark has developed a deep love affair with his bulldozer and mower while Loma is infatuated with the weed sprayer! They have an idyllic spot and I felt quite comfortable there, staying in the guest cabin.

The cabin on the left is where I stayed. The cabin on the right is Loma and Mark's. 

On Friday 7th February Mark and Loma drove me to Mangawhai Heads where, having established that both backpackers were full, we left my pack at the Motor Camp. They then drove me to Pakiri Beach from where I walked the 27km back to Mangawhai Heads. I had been worried about the depth of the water in a river crossing, at the start of the day, but it only came up to just above my ankles. After 15km of beach I could find no sign to show where to leave the beach and ended up overshooting the turn off. A route through forestry roads brought me back onto the roads to Mangawhai and then Mangawhai Heads. At some point I crossed into Northland, the last geographic region of my walk. It had rained on and off all day and as I set my tent up it began raining and rained on and off until the next morning. Despite it being a large camp there was nowhere to sit out of the rain. There is a kitchen (with notices advising guests not to sit on the benches) but no dining area or lounge.

During the night I kept waking with what felt like an insect tickling my skin. When I packed my tent away next morning I discovered it had been invaded by ants! The rain stopped as I left camp on Saturday morning.
I met a lady soon after, who inadvertently showed me the wrong path, an hour and a half later I was only .5km away from where I'd started. I then made a silly decision to walk on the road rather than retrace my steps and find the correct track. Later I missed the start of another coastal walkway and continued on the road to Waipu Cove. The tide was high which meant that yet again I had to walk on the road rather than the beach. I stayed at the Waipu Wanderers Backpackers after a 23km day.

From above Mangawhai heads looking south.

It was threatening rain on Sunday 9th February but stayed dry all day. The 20km walk seemed longer. The first 3 km was on roads and the next 5 km was on the beach. More road walking through Ruakaka brought me back to the beach where the tailwind wind blew sand and seed heads racing past. The seed heads were the size of golf balls and had many long spikes sticking out and reminded me of mini tumbleweeds. Expecting to see Clint Eastwood riding past on a mule, I whistled the theme tune to The Good, The Bad & The Ugly!
I left the beach at Marsden Point and walked roads to One Tree Point. My map showed a camp there but apparently it closed down many years ago. Having failed to find any affordable accommodation I hitched into Whangarei where I stayed at the Bunkdown Backpackers.

Yesterday morning I hitched back to my starting point and walked 31km back into Whangarei. Most of it was on SH1 with lots of fast traffic. Friends had given me contact details for Lisca, who had offered to put me up in Whangarei. She collected the pack and I from the backpackers. She, her daughter Rhianon, Chris (Rhianon's husband) and Chris's daughter Shayla have all made me very welcome. Today I am having a day of rest, updating this blog and restocking my nose bag.

I feel that the end is in sight and was excited to see my first road sign showing Cape Reinga. It is only 266 km from Whangarei by road but probably nearer to 500 km by my more easterly, coastal route.  

I have now walked over 2000 km in the North Island and a total of 3881 km.

Locals comment on corruption in Northland.

Auckland To Whangaparoa

Before I left Waiheke Island, Diana from the Waiheke Marketplace newspaper interviewed me and took photo's of Jan and I. (An article appeared in the Gulf News that week and in Waiheke Marketplace the next week.) Jan and  Mika then took me to the ferry terminal where I caught the ferry to Devonport. Once in Devonport I took a bus to Takapuna and booked into the Motor Camp. There was quite a wind blowing and heavy rain forecast so rather than be in my tent I took the cheapest bed available, $72 for a caravan for the night. After dropping off my pack I caught a bus back to Devonport and walked the 6km back to Takapuna, via North Head, beaches and roads. As it was low tide I managed to walk the final section over rocks and onto Takapuna Beach.

It rained overnight and the caravan was rocking in the wind, I was glad not to be in my tent. As it was still raining in the morning, and I only had 14km to walk that day, I stayed abed until 7.45am. The rain stopped just after I left at 9.50am. I mostly followed the coastal path but as it was very close to the beach the sea was blowing over the path in places and I had to revert to the streets for some sections.

Coastal Path north of  Takapuna

After 1.5km I met Fred walking his dog. As he lives 2km north of where I met him and was about to drive home he agreed to take my pack.  When I collected the pack I had a cuppa with Fred  before I went on my way. My destination for the day was Long Bay where there is a Regional Park. Unfortunately no camping is allowed in the park but I had been told about and phoned the  Sir Peter Blake, Marine Education & Recreation Centre (MERC). Their facility at Long Bay has accommodation for 70 as well as large kitchen and dining facilities. As they had no groups booked for that night they allowed me to stay free of charge. On arrival Lynette, who I had previously spoken to on the phone and who had arranged for me to stay, showed me around. Later I met Paul, the manager, who gave me advice about my route the next day.  I had the spacious complex to myself for the night. I am very appreciative of being allowed to stay at this wonderful place, especially since I was an unknown stranger.

The next day I initially made a wrong turning and ended up in a new housing development and no way through the security fencing. Once heading in the right direction 8km of road walking brought me to the Okura Walkway. This is a 6km walk through wonderful bush. I met many people using the walkway, including Jonathan and his grandson who were checking rat traps.
Once at Stillwater I went to the boat club to see if I could get a ride across the Weiti River. I was gruffly told  "no, you'll have to walk". As I walked away I was told to try at the Camping Ground. Backtracking to the camp, I initially found nobody around but eventually found Bruce working on his yacht, he agreed to take me across on his inflatable tender. The hundred yards across the river saved 15km of road walking.

Bruce took me across the Weiti River.

Once on the other side a rough track eventually led me to suburban streets and then to Arkles Bay    on the Whangaparoa  Peninsula.  While walking I met Maureen who was on her way to the shops. She showed me to the bus stop, as luck would have it a bus to Auckland arrived 4 minutes latter. On arrival in Auckland I caught another bus to Hamilton, where I am enjoying a few days with Charissa.  I will return north on Friday and resume walking on Saturday.

Total Km so far = 3682.

Waiheke Island

When I first started this adventure I am having, I met Jan on Stewart Island. We walked together for a few days and he told me about his life on Waiheke Island and about a planned 5 day around the island walk. He suggested that once I got this far, to do the walk of the island. Over two years later here I am.

I crossed over to Waiheke on the ferry on Tuesday 14th January. Jan met me and brought me to his home in Ostend where I met his wife Jackie and daughter Mika. After a cuppa Jackie took us back to Matiatia (where the ferry comes in) and Jan and I walked 15km back to his home. The coastal route took us mostly along tracks but also along beaches and across rocky headlands. As we walked we talked about our lives over the past two years.

Jan on beautiful Waiheke Island

Me in same spot

On Wednesday I walked another 18km via tracks and roads to Rocky Bay. Then more tracks towards Awaawaroa Bay. At one point I took a wrong turn and ended up trying to bush crash through gorse and bush lawyer before turning back and finding the right track. There were some very steep sections. I stopped at a cafe and bought a cuppa and while there dropped my water bottle. The bottom cracked and leaked water, so I had to carry it upside down for the rest of the day. Whenever I took a drink, water would dribble out of the bottom. Later I stopped to ask two ladies, working in a vineyard garden, if I could refill my bottle from the garden tap. It was a hot day and they asked if I'd walked down the hill. I told them I was about to go up it. "Your bloody mad" was the response. I then found out why, the hill was very steep indeed.

On Thursday morning Jan ran me to the other side of Onetangi and I hitched to my start point. My 24km for the day consisted of mainly quiet roads. A side road leads off to Stoney Batter where there are large tunnels from a WW2 gun emplacement.  I got a ride with the local mailman the 2km to the end of the road then walked the final km.  I was the first customer of the day and when the custodian went to unlock the gate into the tunnels she found she did not have the key. There then ensued a Dad's Army scenario of me assisting her to find an angle grinder, then a power cord and working out how to operate the generator. Once we got the generator going, the grinder needed to be assembled. Finally when we had everything together and operating she cut the lock off. Once inside the tunnels they were very impressive. Quite wide with long stairways and totalling over 1km in length. Later more road walking and then 2km along a nice bush walk brought me to Onetangi Beach. Finally 4km of road walking brought me to Jan & Jackies.

While here I am sleeping in a 2 bedroom cottage in front of their house which they recently had moved onto the property and are doing up.  Meals are taken with them and Ive told them I might not want to leave!

Friday was a day off from walking and I updated this blog, did some shopping and blobbed. On Saturday Jan and I took part in the 25km Wharf 2 Wharf run and race. Jackie dropped us off at Matiatia and we caught the ferry to Orapiu, put on specially for the race.  Jan ran it in 2hrs 22mins while I took a more leisurely 3hr 59mins to walk it. Near the end I walked past Peter Leitch's (The Mad Butcher) home and as I did so he came around the corner, shook my hand and said "good on you mate, your going well, your nearly there".  After the race Jackie picked us up and Jan and I had Fish N Chips.

This morning, Sunday, Jan accompanied me from Onetangi to Oneroa along roads, walkways and beaches (including one nudist beach). He gave me a commentary on the various areas and where he has been involved with establishing the walkways and the graphics his company, Snapper Graphics, has produced for them. At Oneroa we had a cuppa and Jan went home and I was joined by Gary, Chris and their son Connor as well as Buster the dog. Gary is the Auckland City, Parks and Recreation Officer for Waiheke and Great Barrier Islands. As we walked to Matiatia he told me of the history of the areas we passed and of the problems encountered in establishing and maintaining the various walkways. He is very passionate about his job and quizzed me about my experiences and thoughts while walking the island. Once we arrived at Matiatia there was a frantic search for Buster the dog, who had gone missing. After much calling and whistling he was finally spotted racing down the beach towards us half a km away. Gary then drove me home.

Todays walk completed my circular walk of the island. I have enjoyed stunning views, lovely walks, steep hills and great hospitality over the past week. The around Waiheke walk is not yet signposted or advertised as such but I can recommend it to anyone looking for a scenic, if at times somewhat challenging, walk close to Auckland.

Thames to Auckland

 

It's been awhile since I last posted, so a lot to report, but will try to be succinct. After 3 weeks off from walking over Xmas and New Year, I resumed from Thames on Monday 6th January. Due to Xmas eating I was 4kg heavier! Charissa and I drove to Miranda Holiday Park on the Hauraki Coast where we dropped my pack & then drove to Thames. I then walked the 28km to Miranda. The first 5km to Kopu was along the Hauraki Rail Trail. The next 17km was alongside the main road, long and flat. Convoys of cars doing 100km zoomed past in both directions. I noticed an older camper van parked across a driveway with its rear end partially sticking out into the roadway. Cars were having to drive around it. As I drew level I startled a very old man leaning over the fence cutting bamboo. He asked if I was the owner of the property as he wanted to get permission to cut bamboo stakes. As his camper van was already full, back and front, I thought it a bit late to be asking permission. At my suggestion he moved his van further off the road. The final 6km was up the Front Miranda road, with less traffic, to the Holiday Park.  I stayed in my tent and that night I soaked in their hot thermal pool.

I was away before 7am on Tuesday morning, the first 3km on the road and then 2km along the Miranda Bird Hide Track. Later I walked along a beach where about 20 camper vans had parked overnight. Trish and John, retired farmers from Cambridge, invited me into their van for a welcome cuppa. Shortly after leaving them, and on the road again, I met Allan walking in the opposite direction. He had walked 4km to Kaiaua to buy a paper . He crossed the road to talk. Later, after reading my blog, he sent me an encouraging email. Once in Kaiaua I bought what food supplies I could from the local dairy. The night before I'd realised that I had left half my food in Charissa's car. After walking 20km for the day I found a basic camping ground and pitched my tent again.

Wednesday was a short day of 15km, all on roads, to Orere Point Holiday Park where I was in my tent again.

The 25km to Clevedon on Thursday was a mixture of beach and road. The first 9km along sandy beaches and rocky headlands to Kawakawa Bay.  Stephanie the manager of the Holiday Park took my pack into Clevedon and left it at the Presbyterian Church. When I called to collect it Anne Marie gave me tea and biscuits. I then hitched to the Twilight B& B, the only accommodation I could find in the area. Jill the owner made me welcome and gave me fruit and eggs.


On Friday I hitched back to Clevedon and walked  to Maraetai. The first 11km was along the main road but traffic quite light.  The final 4km was along the beach. I stayed with friends Diane and Andy at Maraetai that night. They had left the key out for me. After dropping my pack I then used coastal paths to walk past Omana Beach & Beachlands  to Pine Harbour.  This final 8km brought the days total to 23km. Then walked another 6km back to where I was staying. That evening I joined Diane and Andy in playing social bowls and a couple of beers followed by dinner of sausages and salad.  I had not seen my hosts for a number of years so later, over generous measures of rum, we caught up on each others adventures. Since last meeting them they had spent a few years in the UK where they bought a boat and sailed around Europe. After soaking in their spa I finally got to bed about midnight.

Friends Andy & Diane at Maraetai

I stayed in the unit at Diane & Andys place.

Saturday was another 25km day. After a substantial breakfast Andy dropped me at my start point about 8.30am and Diane later gave me a toot as she drove past on her way to work. After walking on the main road for 4km I then took side roads for the next 6km past lifestyle blocks, many of them with expensive houses on them. Another 2km on the main road brought me to Whitworth. A short walkway, side roads, main road and 7km of Coastal walkway took me to Melons Bay.  Diane had dropped my pack off at my destination for that night. This was a 4km walk from Melons Bay to Botany Downs. Julie is a friend of Charissa and although I'd never met her before she made me very welcome.

Just 8km was my total for Sunday.  Julie served me a large breakfast and then we took my pack to the Half Moon Bay ferry terminal. She then took me to my start point and I walked back to the ferry terminal. After lunch I caught the ferry into Auckland and booked into a backpackers in Queen St.

Monday 13th was a big day of 28km. I caught the ferry back to Half Moon Bay and walked back into Auckland. The route consisted of a mixture of suburban streets, walkways and coastal paths. The Rotary Shared Path is 9km long and a wide concrete path which hugs the coast and great walking. You hardly know you are walking in New Zealand's biggest city.

Total distance walked since start is 3553km, with 1799 of this in the North Island.

Coromandel Peninsula

On Monday 9th December I caught the Intercity bus to Coromandel then hitched to Te Rerenga. I  stayed at the Waikawau Bay Motor Camp again. Next morning I was up early and away at 6.30am. The first 2km was along SH25 then 5km along a forestry road. Glenn from Earnslaw One had previously given me permission to walk on their road and given very explicit instructions about where to turn off the road onto an old track. At the turn off point I found a log with my name and an arrow painted on it, showing me the way.

The first half a km of the track was through gorse and I nearly gave up. However persistence paid off and eventually I was able to follow the overgrown track reasonably well. It took me 2 hours to walk the 4km. Eventually the track came out onto the Kennnedy Bay Rd. I only saw 3 vehicles going my way in the next 3 hours. Thinking I was 7kms from my destination I hitched a ride with the 3rd vehicle only to find I was just 2km from the camp. After setting up my tent I got a ride back with the same people and walked the final 2km. Total for the day was 29km.

For the next 3 nights I stayed in my tent at DOC camps. The first night was at Waikawau Bay where the staff were very helpful. They arranged for Tim the local Rural Delivery mailman to take my pack on to Sandy Bay the next day. I was walking at 6.30am again and arrived, 18km later, at Sandy Bay at 9.50am. On the way I passed through Port Charles. Tim arrived at 12.20pm with my pack and I walked the final 7km to Stony Bay.

Thursday was a perfect days walking. The first 9 km was along the Coromandel Walkway, mostly through bush, with the last 2 km across farmland. There were great views across to Great Barrier Island. I was away at 6.15am and saw nobody until I arrived at the DOC camp at Fletcher Bay.

Looking down on DOC camp at Fletcher Bay

Two German tourists agreed to take my pack 6 km onto the next camp at Port Jackson. I walked up the road for 3km and then turned off onto the Muriwai Walk. This is a grass track with a drop to the sea on one side and farmland on the other. It reminded me of coastal walks in the UK. That was until I came to a view of Port Jackson and its long sandy beach, then I knew I wasn't in the UK!

Port Jackson from Muriwai Walk

Friday 13th was a long day, in the heat, all on roads. The first 3km was uphill then most of the next 28km alongside the coast. Tama stopped to offer me a ride about half way. He agreed to drop my pack at the Colville Store. I stayed that night in a backpackers 2km south of Colville where the only other guests were a French couple. Their English not much better than my French but they went into my blog on their tablet and used software to translate it into French.

On Saturday I walked the 2km back to Colville then took a back road, a track and then the main road to Coromandel. About 9km from Coromandel I met a German guy walking and heading for where I had stayed the night before. It is unusual for me to meet other walkers and even more so to find someone doing the same walk as me in reverse! I stayed in another backpackers that night after a 27km day. A long  hot day with my big pack.  I met some people from Hamilton who agreed to take my pack to Tapu the next day.

I slept in on Sunday morning and didn't get up until 5.20am but was still away at 6.15am. Shortly after leaving Coromandel I came across the survivors of an all night party, sitting drinking around the remains of a fire. There was rubbish strewn all over the place including the side of the road. As I was walking on the main road I was wearing a Hi Vis vest. The party goers must have thought I was someone in authority come to chastise them. When I called out a greeting they told me "don't worry about the rubbish bro, we'll clean it up"!

Later I walked through Manaia, I wondered if the inhabitants were referred to as Manaiacs?
I asked for a backpackers room at the Tapu Motor Camp and was given a cabin with a double bed for $15. I've paid more for a tent site in other places. As there was a pub over the road I shouted myself a pub meal that night as I'd walked 35km that day. The camp manager agreed to take my pack into Thames the next day.

The final 23km to Thames was once again mostly on the road, fairly narrow in places  and I had to have my wits about me. Once at Thames I followed the stop-banks for 1km and then the Coastal Walkway for 2km. After collecting my pack I hitch hiked to Hamilton. My 4th and final ride for the day turned out to be someone I'd worked with and Mike took me right to my door.

I will resume walking in the New Year from Thames towards Auckland. I wish everyone a Merry Xmas and a Happy New Year. See you all here in January.

Total kms walked to date = 1627 North Island and 3380 in total.

Santa's Little Helper

Kaylah and I at Opoutere School

Looking at Pauanui from Paku 

Friends Jo & Peter

Mangroves at Whangapoua

New Chums Beach on a rainy day

On Sunday 24th November Charissa drove me back to Waihi Beach and we stayed in the lovely holiday home of  Ange Annas, an ex colleague. I walked 9km on the beach from Bowentown to the end of Waihi Beach. From there a track goes overland to Golden Valley. However there was a sign saying the track is closed due to storm damage. Therefore Monday's 34 km  was all on roads. Perhaps due to the 25c heat, two people stopped in the afternoon to offer me rides. My grandson Cory drove out from Whanagamata to collect me and I spent the next 3 nights staying with my son and daughter in law, Adam & Adele, and my grandchildren, Cory, Hadyn & Kaylah. Later Adam drove me back to Waihi Beach and we collected my pack.

On Tuesday I gave a talk to the pupils (including Kaylah) of Opoutere School. They all seemed interested in what I am doing and if Rae, the Principal, hadn't called time then I think the questions would still be coming. Later that afternoon I completed another 8km from where Cory had picked me up, to the northern outskirts of Whangamata. That afternoon Kaylah slipped off the wet deck at school, sprained her wrist and had her arm in a sling.

It was an early start on Wednesday as Adam dropped me off at my start point at 6am. Just after 7.30am I had done 10km and called in and had a cup of tea with Rae at Opoutere School. Another 7km of back country road brought me to a forestry road. I had been given permission to walk the 5km through to the Hikuia - Pauanui Rd. I saw no one as I walked through mature pine trees. I left them undisturbed, quietly growing. It was overcast all day, which kept the temperatures down, but didn't actually rain. I had an ice cream at Hikuai, after 28km in 6.5 hours,  then hitched back to Whangamata.

Another 6am start on Thursday meant that I had completed the 12km to Tairua by  8am. At the local dairy I picked up copies of the Coastal News which featured Kaylah and myself on the front page. I stayed at the holiday home of friends, Jo & Peter, in Tairua for 2 nights. Adam delivered my pack that night. Charissa came through on Thursday night and Jo & Peter on Friday.  It was nice to be able to socalise with friends and family, after a days walking, for a change.

On Friday I climbed the local hill, Paku, walked the beach and then on SH25 to Whenuakite, a total of 15km, before hitching back to Tairua.

It was another early start on Saturday as Jo & Peter drove my pack and myself to Whitianga, where they had arranged accommodation for me with their friends. Shirley and Chris were away but had made a bed up for me in the unit in front of their home. After dropping my pack off they then dropped me at Whenuakite.  22km later I arrived at Ferry Landing, having walked along roads towards Hot Water Beach & Hahei, without actually going to either. I caught the ferry to Whitianga after climbing Shakespears Cliff.

Sunday was spent reading and resting. On Monday I became Santa's Little Helper. The first 2km were mostly along the beach and then on SH25. Out of Simpsons Beach  Sara stopped to offer me a ride, she agreed to take my pack to Black Jacks Backpackers in Kuaotuna, my destination for the day. A few km's later I stopped to pick up some Xmas presents which had been partially opened and discarded. I put these in pack day pack and continued walking. Over the next 5km I picked up ten or so Xmas presents.

Carl and Carol made me welcome at the  backpackers and Carl  agreed  to take the Xmas presents into the police station next time they went to town. I felt sure they were the result of a burglary. As some of them were obviously intended for kids I was keen for them to be reunited with their named recipients.

The next day Carol was heading to Auckland and agreed to drop my pack at a cafe, near where I was hoping to stay that night. The first 3km was along beaches at Kuaotuna where I was thrilled to see two tiny Dottrell chicks. I have been on many beaches with signs saying how rare these birds are. In fact I think I must have seen most of the total 1700 population between here and Stewart Island. This was the first time I'd seen chicks.  A narrow metal road then brought me to Matarangi and another 4km of sandy beach. At the end of the spit there was a track around the golf course and then through the subdivisions to a cafe, where I stopped for a cuppa and cake.

As I walked over a wide grass verge on the way out of Matarangi a car drove over the grass and stopped alongside me. The driver was wearing a name badge. Initially I thought that I had transgressed some local bylaw and that this was a vigilante come to run me out of town. This was far from the case as Puk is the local shopkeeper and the owner of the Xmas presents I had picked up the day before. Carl had recognized the names on the gift tags, phoned Puk who had gone to collect. He then set out to track me down to thank me. On learning where my pack had been taken, he phoned the cafe owner to arrange lunch at his expense. The good news is that the burglars had been apprehended, with the booty from Puk's and 2 other burglaries.

Another 9km later I enjoyed a lovely lunch at Castle Rock cafe then booked into the Whangapoua Holiday Park. Suzanne & Aaron have refurbished an old Forestry Camp and have reopened it as a Holiday Park. They generously allowed me to have two nights for the price of one.

Rain was forecast for Wednesday but I took a chance and walked to Whangapoua, then over a river and along a track to New Chums beach. This a a world renown beach for which access is only via the track or by boat. It was raining by the time I got there so after walking the length of the beach I returned to Whangapoua from where the local postie, Kevin gave a ride back to the camp.

It rained all day Thursday so I stayed put and read. As further rain was forecast until Monday I returned to Hamilton for a few days. The plan is to return on Monday and start walking on Tuesday. I will be in my tent for a few nights as I walk around the top of the Coromandel Peninsula.

Total km walked to date = 3220

Whakatane to Waihi Beach

11 & 12 yr olds at Thornton School asked some good questions

Keita & photo of Tyrese

Allan rowed me across the estuary from Pukehina to Little Waihi

Overlooking Mt Maunganaui from "The Mount"

Whakatane & White Island

On White Island

Boiling mud & sulphur

Abandoned factory White Island

White Island from boat Pee Jay IV

I left Opotiki last Friday, my friend Gavin drove me to the museum and then Len drove me to Ohiwa Bay, where I booked into a cabin at the Top 10 Holiday Park. Len then drove me back to Opotiki and I walked the 11km back to Ohiwa. The first 3 km was on the road with the remainder on the beach. I was not sure if I could wade across the Waiotahi River but after talking with some people collecting Pipi's, I crossed with the water coming up to my waist.

My destination on Saturday was Ohope, just half a km across the water, however there being no boat available to take me across, it was a 30km walk along the roads. At Cheddar Valley there is a 2km nature walk through a salt marsh. I stayed in my tent at the Ohope Top 10 Holiday Park. My pack was taken from Ohiwa to Ohope for me by a fellow camper.

On Sunday I walked to the end of Ohope Beach then walked back to the camp. Chelsea who lives in Whakatane and works at the camp agreed to take my pack into Whakatane at the end of the day. The days total was 16km, 11km along the beach and then up and over the Kohi Point Walkway.

I am staying in a backpackers room at the Whakatane Hotel for 3 nights. Yesterday was a little special for me. Pee Jays White Island Tours sponsored me with a free trip to White Island. It was a beautiful day and the sea was flat for the 2 hour trip out to the island 49km's away. Once there we were transferred, 10 at a time to the wharf by rubber dingy. We had been issued with hard hats and gas masks in case the active volcano erupted while on the island. Our guides took us on a 1.5 hour tour of the island and showed us sulphur deposits, boiling mud pools and the crater lake. Sulphur used to be mined here and there is the remains of a factory, abandoned in the 1930's. A great day out and something unique, visiting an active volcano on an offshore island.

Today I am having a day off (yes another one!) and catching up with some chores. tomorrow I head up the coast towards Matata, then Tauranga.

Total km's walked to date 2888km - 1145 North Island.

Barefoot to Opotiki



Abandoned road near Hawai



Cycle/Walkway Bridge Opotiki

On outskirts of Opotiki

On Tuesday 22nd October I caught a bus to Opotiki, where I stayed with my friend Gavin. On Wednesday morning I was interviewed by the Opotiki News and then hitchhiked to Te Araroa.
I booked into the Te Araoa Camp Ground and stayed in a caravan for the night.

 Thursday was a 29km walk, all on roads, past Hicks Bay and Pataka before hitching to Waihau Bay. About lunch time I spoke to Don who was doing some renovations on his house. While refilling my water bottle he told me a little about his life. He moved back here from Hamilton two years ago and in that time has not travelled further afield than Ruatoria, about 60km away!

The Waihou Bay Motor Camp is officially closed but a couple of long term residents advised me that nobody owned one of the caravans on site, on finding it clean and tidy I moved into that for two nights. On Friday I hitched back to where I had been picked up from the day before and walked the 20km back. Once again it was all on SH35 except for a 2km stretch of beach. On the way I passed from the East Coast region to the Bay Of Plenty.

The first one km on Saturday was along the beach then back to SH35. As I passed a house in Waihou Bay a lady called out "Good on you" and started to clap. Presumably she had read the Opotiki News article. I thankfully had my pack taken on for the last 5km of the 23km for the day. I stayed at the Maraehako Backpackers. This is in a fabulous location, built right on the rocks alongside the ocean.

Sunday was an easy 15km walk to Te Kaha, made even easier by having my pack taken the whole way. There being no beds available at the Te Kaha Camping Grounds I pitched my tent for the first time for awhile.

There was lots of traffic on the road on Monday due to it being a public holiday. An hour out of Te Kaha I was invited in for a cup of tea by Martin & Marina who had just read about me. Their guests Vic & Barbara were heading home later that day and readily agreed to take my pack. Later I met them at the Motu River bridge and they gave me a ride to Hawai where I stayed in a backpackers room at the Motor Camp. The 27km for the day were once again all on SH35.

The first car I stuck my thumb out to on Tuesday morning took me back to the Motu River Bridge and I walked the 13km back to Hawai. After collecting my pack I then walked another 14km to Opape. I stayed at the small Opape Motor Camp. Beryl & Kevin and their son Perry gave me a cabin free of charge as Perry had read about me. Before I moved into the cabin they had to evict the current tenants, a mother cat and two young kittens.

Yesterday was an easy 15km, all on the beach, to Opotiki. After 2km I removed my boots to cross a stream and never put them back on until I left the beach 10km later. It was a beautiful day, I was off the road at last and walking in bare feet. It felt like I was on holiday!  Once again Gavin welcomed me to his home.

Im having a rest day today and catching up with a few chores. tomorrow I head for Whakatane which
should take about 3 days to reach.

East Cape Escapades

On outskirts of Gisborne

On Tuesday 1st October I left Gisborne along State Highway 35. The previous day I had been interviewed for an article in the Gisborne Herald. Before leaving on Tuesday I met Paul, their photographer, who took shots of me leaving Gisborne over the main river bridge. The article appeared in that afternoons edition. Of all the papers I have been in this was to prove to be the most helpful. Every second person I met over the next week had read the article and this resulted in offers of accommodation, my pack being taken on for me and other kindnesses.

The first 3.5km was along the main road. Once at Wainui I was on the beach and nice hard sand for the next 3.5 km. There is a nice gravel path up and over the headland to Makorori and another beach for 2km. Another 2km on the main road brought me to Tatpouri. I was told about a backpackers and although it was closed and usually only took bus parties I was allowed to stay. I'd walked just 13km that day and had a 21 bed backpackers all to myself.

Wainui Beach North of Gisborne

Wednesday was a fine hot day and I was soon down to wearing shirt and shorts. The first 5km was mostly along the beach. The next 18km were all alongside SH35 and I counted over 200 logging trucks between 7.50am and 2pm. Apart from being buzzed by magpies on two different occasions, nothing of note happened.

About 2pm a car stopped a long way past me,  and on catching up to them I was offererd a bed for the night at Anaura Bay. As the car was already full I would have to get myself there. At that stage I was only vaguely aware of where Anaura Bay is but gratefully accepted the offer. One of two Canadian WWOOF's in the car had just read about me in the paper and this prompted their host Judy, to stop and offer me a bed. More about this remarkable lady later.

I stuck my thumb out to the next car that came along and was given a ride to Tolaga Bay. Jackie the driver, who originally came from Anaura Bay (and had also read about me in the paper) then drove me 18km out of her way to Judy's place.

Judy, her 3 grandchildren and the 2 WWOOF's all made me welcome and on Thursday morning Judy drove me back to the main road where I hitched a lift back to where I'd been picked up from the previous day. I walked 13km into Tolaga Bay,with another 4km side trip to visit and walk along the Tolaga Bay Wharf.  While on the 600m wharf I was once again recognized from the newspaper article and later also in one of the shops. Finally walked 14km from Tolaga Bay to the Anaura Bay turnoff where I was able to hitch a ride back to Judy's place.
At 33km this was one of my bigger distances but made easier by not having my 26kg pack to carry.

Tolaga Bay Wharf

I had a day off from walking on Friday and spent the day weeding the path from the house to the beach. During the three nights I spent at Judy's place I got to know a little of her life. Aged 74 and suffering from Lymphoma, she had arrived back in NZ, from a 6 weeks European trip, the night before she picked me up. She spent that first night in Gisborne before collecting her three grandsons and the two WWOOFers and heading home. Already with a house full she then offered to put me up as well. On arriving home she found that someone had left her freezer door open and all her meat and berries had to be discarded and buried. The water intake from the local stream had blocked, the washing machine not working and the pantry over run with ants!! She took all this in her stride and would have to be one of the most resilient people I've met.

Judy and grandsons

Anaura Bay one of my favorite spots

I was off again on Saturday morning and Judy once again ran me to the main road for a 23km walk to Tokomaru Bay. Only 3km up the road I spoke to Joe who was up a ladder fixing the power supply to a house. He offered me a lift but agreed to take just my pack, which he left at the Tokomaru Bay Motor camp. Apart from speaking to a couple of Stop/Go men at roadworks it was a fairly ordinary road walk. On uplifting my pack I booked into a cabin at the Motor Camp. The cabin was clean and tidy but the rest of the camp is a dump!!

That night I received a phone call from a local who wanted to meet me. Jill had relocated an old schoolhouse to just outside Tokomaru Bay in the 1980's. The only road into it is over a long steep hill and it's easier to walk across a river and walk into town. So in the dark Jill forded the river and walked the 1.5km to meet me. She later took me to visit her friend Woody who had been looking after a Backpackers. That day new owners had taken over and given Woody instructions that, if I turned up, to give me free accommodation.

The next day I met the new owners Angus and Leeann who had renamed the backpackers "Lost In Paradise". I spent two nights there, the view is fabulous and in contrast to the Motor Camp everything  is spotless and organized. As it turned out we had met before, quite some months ago when we were all staying at the Waimarama Motor Camp.

Sunday was another day of walking on roads, firstly 12km up SH35 to Te Puia Springs then 6km by a back road to Waipiro Bay. I found a wallet lying in the grass alongside the road, it had no money in it but a number of credit cards etc. I assumed that it had been stolen, the money removed and discarded. I left it on a wall alongside the next mail box. I had lunch at Waipiro Bay then took another back road 8km back to SH35. Once there I texted Woody who came and collected me and took me back to "Paradise".

That morning, on the way out of town, I had visited Jill in her old schoolhouse. After fording the river I found her place and had a cuppa with her. A friend of hers is building a 70 tonne boat on her property. Initially he thought it would take him 3 years to build. The good news is that he expects to launch it next year .......... 25years later!!

It has taken 25 years to build this boat

I had a lazy day at "Lost In Paradise" on Monday and hitched a ride on Tuesday to where I'd left off on Sunday. I was picked up by Karen. a local teacher, who took me 12km out of her way. I headed up SH35 towards Ruatoria.  Karen had told me about a backpackers at Ruatoria which I had not heard of.  After 7km I was offered a ride by Judy, another teacher. As she was going into Ruatoria and then coming back the same way she agreed to drive me to the backpackers so that I could drop off my pack and then bring me back. The backpackers turned out to be an expensive Guesthouse. Once I'd picked myself up off the floor after being told the tariff I asked if I could pitch my tent. That was not possible but Leigh had read about me and gave me a room at half price " because of what your doing". Judy then took me back to where she had picked me up from. When I said I was surprised by the number of women who pick me up she told me that she had "prayed to god that you are a nice person"!

KFC on the coast!

That night, after walking the remaining 7km to the guesthouse, Leigh helped me to contact a local landowner to get permission to cross his land two days later.

Wednesday entailed walking 21km, once again alongside SH35, to Tikitiki. There being no accommodation there and it looked like being a wet night I hitched a ride to Te Araroa where I stayed at a backpackers in an old nunnery.

It took exactly 2 hours to hitch a ride back to Tikitiki on Thursday morning. Ian is the local painter and as he drove he told me interesting facts and stories. A few years ago he arranged to pick up the local District Nurse after she had run form Te Araroa to East Cape a distance of 20km. On Ian's arrival at East Cape there was no sign of the nurse. A police search ensued and next day her body was found in the sea. She had a broken neck. They think she tried to climb a bluff and slipped.

A backroad from Tikitiki led me to Rangitukia, a small settlement. A car passed me with the tailgate down and a teenager sitting on it. As it went past she yelled "Go brother you're walking the world" Then turning to those inside the car "he's the one walking New Zealand". Two people stopped to offer rides which was ironic since it had taken 2 hours to get a lift when I wanted one and now I was being offered them when I didn't ! Further up the road in the middle of nowhere I was greeted by a young and friendly goat who followed me 3 km s up the road and another 2 down a farm track. I finally managed to loose "George" when I went through a gateway and he couldn't get through. I could still hear his plaintive bleating several hundred metres up the track. After traveling with me so far I thought perhaps I should have given him one of my cards, with this blog address on it. But who knows how long before he could get to a computer and by then he would have probably eaten the card!

The farm track took me 5km across Haha Station to the beach. I only hope George found something to laugh about! Once on the beach I surprised a herd of cattle who took off running up the beach in the surf. After 4km of beach I crossed a paddock to reach the end of East Cape Road and the track to the lighthouse. I didn't need to count the steps as Ian had already told me there are 776. I surprised myself by walking to the top without stopping (I had hidden my pack at the bottom behind a building) . It had started to rain as I left the beach so it was a quick visit to the lighthouse and back down again. A further 4km of road walking took me to what is advertised as the East Cape Camping Ground. This is a serious misrepresentation as the campground consists of two derelict buildings, no running water, the grass not mown and the only amenity a long drop toilet. There is an honesty box here, with a charge of just $6. I thought about the lack of honesty in their advertising and for the first time did not pay. I thought $6 was a bit steep to use a longdrop!

Beef on the reef!

As it was getting late due to my 2 hour wait for a ride I had no choice but to stay there. I was therefore quite surprised that there were 4 vehicles with a total of 9 tourists also there. We lit a fire from driftwood and swapped stories. That night was the worst of my walk so far. Wind and rain continued on and off all night and one of my tent pegs came out causing the tent fly to blow back over the tent and for the first time I got water in the tent. My bag of clothes and my sleeping bag all got wet.

Next morning I trudged the 16km in the rain back to Te Araroa and the backpackers, had a shower, put on what dry clothes I had and rested the rest of the day.

Yesterday marked  a month since I had restarted walking and I set off early to try to get to Hamilton for a weeks rest. As there is no public transport from Te Araroa I left there at 6.45am and started hitchhiking. Three rides got me the 220km to Whakatane by 12 noon, in plenty of time to catch the 2pm bus to Hamilton. Unfortunately there was no 2pm bus and no more for the rest of the day. Two more rides got me to Tauranga by 2.15pm in plenty of time to catch the 3pm Hamilton bus.

So here I am for the next week, resting and eating and reflecting on all the wonderful, friendly people I have met so far on the East Coast. Im sure the Gisborne Herald article helped as it brought what I am doing to peoples attention. Fundamentally though I have discovered that there is an underlying generosity of spirit and friendliness that is more abundant amongst "coasters" than anywhere else I've walked so far.

In the last month I've walked 365km
Total North Island = 929km
Total both islands = 2665km