Tuesday 24 January 2012

Ten Percent

I have now reached Dunedin so am about 10 % of the way on my journey. Only 90% to go!

After leaving Akatore I walked 7km, along beaches and and paddocks to Taieri Mouth where I stayed at the Motor Camp, still no shop and an enquiry regarding purchasing fresh vegetables from a permanent resident of the camp once again resulted in food being donated to me and a refusal of payment. The Motor Camp is run by Dianna (who is in her late 70's at a guess) bright eyed and with a good sense of humour. When she advised me that there were no other guests staying that night and that there would just be the 2 of us I said I hoped we didn't fight. Well she said I should warn you that I wont give you any quarter! (in other words she wouldn't take it easy on me). Had my first shower for 3 days. Went for a stroll on the beach in the afternoon and found a good quality pocket knife. (Have now found 3 weapons of mass destruction, pocket knife, axe and a fry pan!!)

Was up early the next day and on the road by 7.30am, crossed over the Taieri Mouth bridge then dropped down onto the beach, where I stayed, except for one small section, for the next 18km to Brighton. Several times I had to cross small rocky headlands but nothing too steep or daunting apart from one place where I tried 3 different places to get off the beach but they were all too steep, finally found my way to the top only to be confronted by blackberries and scrub. When I finally stumbled out onto the road covered in scratches I discovered that Mitch (a soft toy tiger who travels on the back of my pack, "Mitch the Hitch") was missing so had to go back and rescue him. Met Hazel and Iwi collecting seaweed on the beach and was invited into their home for morning tea. Saw a seagull flying with a large white supermarket bag caught on its leg, reminded me of the small planes that fly trailing advertising banners. The Brighton Motor camp is the cleanest/tidiest I've seen and has lots of permanent residents living in caravans. I stayed there 2 nights, nearly losing my tent on the second night when a large gust of wind ripped a tent peg out, managed to secure it but not before some rain entered the tent. On the 2nd day John, one of the resident took me into Dunedin so that that I could go shopping and I caught the bus "home". John also invited me in for tea and cake and then took my large pack onto my next campsite in Dunedin.

The walk into Dunedin was along beaches and roads with nothing much of interest, had to take an alternative path at one stage as there was a sea lion asleep on the main pathway. Stayed one night at the Dunedin Motor camp which is huge and well run but also the most expensive to date.

I am now staying in Portabello for a couple of nights with the people who we rented accommodation from over Xmas. Bill and Orma brought my pack here yesterday and I had a very pleasant but tiring day walking on a mixture of tracks, beaches, sand dunes, 4WD tracks and roads. There are some spectacular view from the Highcliff  Track which mostly transverses farmland across some very steep country. I lost the track at one stage and spent half an hour until I found it again. Later in the day I took a side track to Lovers Leap (resisted the urge to leap) and The Chasm, spectacular vertical rock cliffs which are well worth a visit.

Having an easy day today, did 2 hours walking this morning to complete a small section I didn't finish yesterday then tomorrow its back into Dunedin. I've walked about 300km since leaving Bluff and have an estimated 2700 to go. My knee seems to be bearing up but does cause some discomfort at night. Next week I return to the Catlins to look after the Hostel/Motor Camp for 10 days and will then return to Hamilton for a two week break before resuming the walk in early March.

Saturday 21 January 2012

Making Progress

I spent 4 nights at Owhaka not only is there plenty to see and do in the area but I was also suffering from a sore knee. I made two side trips from Owaka one to see Jacks Blowhole a hole in the ground 200 metres from the sea where the sea can be seen surging 55 metres down. The other trip was to Nugget Point, I was very impressed with the scenic views here of the lighthouse, seals, spoonbills, shags etc. A lady staying at the hostel I was staying at was going there and offered me a ride. It was an interesting drive at 60km/hour on the main road, few gear changes and much labouring of the engine!

Instead of paying for my tent site I did a few hours cleaning/vacuuming etc, the upshot of this is that I am travelling back there in early February and will be managing the Youth Hostel/Motor camp for ten days while the owner goes on holiday. This will not only help replenish my funds but will give me some skills I might be able to use later.

From Owaka I walked to Kaka Point up the coast and mostly over farmland. I had phoned the 4 farmers concerned and gained permission to walk over their land. Unfortunately the day was wet and low cloud meant I couldn't see where the headlands were and had to walk every little headland and inlet due to very poor visibility so walked furthest than I would have if it had been sunny.This was steep sheep country and the grass was wet and slippery. Craig the owner of the hostel drove my pack to Kaka Point so this was the 4th day I didn't need to carry it. Saw one seal and one sea lion en route.

I stayed 2 nights in my tent at the Kaka Point Motor camp as my knee was still playing up. Met Wade and Penny who were having a few days camping with 3 young children, they not only fed me but took my pack onto Balclutha where I walked to after Kaka Point. A fairly boring walk on roads from Kaka Point to Balclutha, I had phoned Colin and Dianne the night before and they collected me from Balclutha and took me the 6kms to their farm and showed me great hospitality and home cooking. They are the parents of Kim who I gardened for at Waipapa Point. The next day they took me into Balclutha where I visited a Physio for my knee. In the Health 2000 shop in Balclutha, Elaine provided me with a cup of tea, muffin and nuts to nibble on.

Reaching Balclutha is bit of a milestone for me as it is the first town of any size I have reached since leaving Invercargill, it is also the end of the Catlins.

Balclutha to Kaitangata was the first day walking with my large pack for some time and as it was all on roads a fairly uneventful walk, I did get off the main road at Stirling and walked the long way round through Inch Clutha. The Motor Camp at Kaitangata is quite small but clean and for the same price as a tent site I was offered and took a bed in a back room.accessed through a large storeroom holding vehicles and caravans amongst other things. The camp had 3 permanent residents one of which was a self opinionated older man who quickly told me what the faults were with my walk where I should have walked etc etc. He also told me his sister ran the local shop and later when I said I was off to the shop and I would tell her that he sent me he said better not do that as he used to live with her but they kicked him out and they no longer talked. I wonder why! I assume that his was the room with very thin walls next to mine where the TV went all night tuned to BBC World News.

After little sleep the next day I walked roads again to Wangaloa and camped on the Domain behind the Golf Course. Jack, a volunteer groundsman at the Golf Course provided me with pork, fish and frozen peas for dinner. The walk from Wangaloa to Toko Mouth was mostly along beaches but no wild life to speak of. Camped at the Toko Mouth Domain. Asked some people travelling in a caravan if they could sell me any vegetables and was given silver beet and oranges for which they refused payment. Had a later start than usual from Toko Mouth as I had to wait for low tide to walk across the river. Forded the river at 9.30am and got the bottom of my shorts wet but they soon dried. The walk was mostly along beaches and through a couple of small settlement where the cribs are mostly original and little sign of any modern construction. One exception is the home of Ken and Marg Tustin who invited me in for lunch, gave me so much food to take away with me it was embarrassing (but also very welcome as several days without shops). Ken kept asking me what they could do to help me. He is well known as being the person who has written books, been on TV etc trying to prove that there are still Moose in Fiordland, apparently DNA proof from hair samples is not enough to convince most people! Walked into the early evening as I had another creek to cross and finally pitched my tent in very windy conditions after crossing Akatore Creek about 8pm. Saw one seal colony and one sea lion today.

As my time is up on this computer I will have to stop here and do another update in a few days about my travels to Dunedin. I would like to thank all the numerous people who have showed me kindness by providing food when my supplies have run low, in each case I have offered to buy food but my money has been refused.

Thanks again to all those who have posted comments, it's great to know that people are reading this.

Monday 9 January 2012

On The Road Again

I am pleased to report that my back is now fully recovered and I have resumed the walk.

Spent 3 weeks of  R&R in Dunedin with Charissa. We booked a self contained unit, at Portobello on the Otago Peninsula, belonging to Bill & Orma Blackler, they were fantastic landlords and looked after us really well. Did most of the usuual tourist things, Albatross Colony, seals at Shag Point, Cadbury Chocolate Factory, Speights Brewery, Worlds Steepest Street, also visited Oamaru and Port Chalmers.

I'm also pleased to say that I put back on the 7kgs I lost on Stewart Island. Naomi and Chunky returned me to Curio Bay (the last point I walked to) on Friday 7th January. That night we saw several of the Yellow Eyed Penguins as they returned to their nests at dusk. Next day I recommenced my walk sans large pack as Naomi and Chunky picked me up at the end of the day and returned me to Curio Bay again. As I left Curio Bay I walked along the beach at Porpoise Bay and was enthralled for 30 minutes by a group of 20 or so Dolphins playing in the surf, jumping out of the water and surfing in on the waves, one of the most pleasurable experiences of my walk so far. As I passed through Waikawa I spoke to some people manning a Fire Control Centre and was surprised to learn that there were 5 out of control fires in the area caused by controlled burn offs in the area several months previously which had suddenly sprung to live again in the peat soils, I saw no sign of the fires myself. It did reinforce for me how dry my trip has been so far compared with those in the northern parts of NZ who have had lots of rain. Nothing much else of note that day. I walked 32km and was well pleased with the days progress without my large pack.

The next day Naomi and Chunky drove me to Papatowai where I booked into the camping grounds and set my tent up. They then returned me to my finishing point of the day before so this was my second day without the pack. Just as I was about to start I realised that I had left Pak N Save (my stick which had been with me since Stewart Island) at Curio Bay. Chunky offered to return to Curio Bay to collect it but I said it wasn't worth the expense and time for what is just a stick. Later while eating my lunch just off the road I saw there car head back to Papatowai and realised they had in fact returned to Curio Bay found my stick and placed it in my tent. I was very grateful but also felt guilty as they had travelled 106 km out of their way for a stick!!
Only walked 11 km of my route that day but also did some side tracks and a small length of beach where the largest sea lion I have seen to date rushed at me as I had obviously intruded into his comfort zone, as I am now well used to seeing them I continued walking but got ready to run if he had intruded into MY comfort zone.
Found a good axe laying on the side of the road and propped it against a road marker so hopefully somebody has found it by now. When I arrived at my tent I found not only my stick but a selection of edible treats!

That night I spoke with some other campers in house buses (Robert & Roz, Garnet & Marlene) and learnt that they were heading to Owaka the next day which was also my destination and they readily agreed to take my pack. This means that I have now walked 3 days without the pack. This may not sound like much but is a major boon to me. They also replaced my tatty map with one not only in better condition but also showing more detail. Yesterday I walked 26km form Papatowai to Owaka mostly along back roads but the first part along a beautiful sandy beach  which was really quite spectacular. Saw one more sea lion. My route took me past Purakaunui Falls, otherwise known as the wedding cake falls and seen on numerous calendars and postcards etc. I took the short track in and while I was pleased to see it there was not a lot of water due to Southland having it's driest summer for over 50 years. Arrived at the camp, which is also a Youth Hostel and former Maternity Hospital and collected my pack and set my tent up.

There is a very good small Museum here in Owaka which doubles as an Information Centre and local Library.
The receptionist has provided me with the names and ph numbers, from the councils mapping system,of 4 local farmers who's land I hope to cross in order to get to Nugget Point without taking the long way around via roads.

Today I am having a quite day, I will try hitchhiking to Jacks Blowhole a natural feature where the sea surges through caves someway inland. As this is to the south of where I am and not on my route I feel hitchhiking rather than walking is legitimate.

Finally thanks to all those of you who have placed comments on my blogs, I really do appreciate receiving them and knowing that you are actively following my progress.